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Routes in 1 - Parkline Slab

Eye of the Beholder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back for More T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bombay Bitch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bring in the Fembots T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Caribbean Cruise S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Center Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chase, The T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Clowns to the left T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Color Me Gone (P1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cool Cliff 170 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Costa Rica (p1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Crossover T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dangling Chads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Farm Alarm TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fly By T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flying In The Mountains T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free For All T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hawaiian , The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hayley Anna T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Homeworld T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hummock World T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jokers to the Right T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Machine Gun Jubblies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moss Madness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
P-Line Express T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rough Arond the Edges Direct T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rough Around the Edges T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saved By Zero T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sawyer Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Secret Agent Dward S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Side Tracked T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Simon the Dog (aka Dressed to Drill) S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Soft in the Middle T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soloist, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Stonequest T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Too High T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tweet This T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unchaste, The T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed Skelton route T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Whorny Toad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Woody Woodpecker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wretched in Stone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jeff Scheuerell, Monica Buhler, 2/10
Page Views: 1,343 total, 14/month
Shared By: Jeff Scheuerell on Feb 20, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Details
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

As the name implies, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. This route climbs much better than it may at first appear. In fact the climbing is excellent. You may choose to do this route in 4,5, or 6 pitches. Doing it in 4 requires a 70m rope or simul climbing 15' on the first and a bit on the last. The route starts out with enjoyable climbing, 5.6, following broken rock and cracks to a bolted station about 75' up. Belay here or continue up a left facing corner. Move out right at the end of the corner and follow discontinuous cracks and seams to an A shaped roof. Climb the right side of the A into a finger crack that ends at a comfy bolted belay. Get your stoppers ready, the next pitch likes to eat up small to medium size nuts, preferably offsets. Don't miss the sideways nut placement out on the face 35 or so feet up. I also find a spot for a pink tricam at mid height. The pitch finishes with friction climbing past 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay/rap station. At this point the crux is 5.9 at most and takes great protection. But the next 2 pitches are much harder with a few runout sections. The next pitch starts out with a short 5.11 section at the first bolt then gets much easier, though runout, passing three more bolts as you angle left to a 2 bolt anchor. The last pitch angles back right with several thin 5.10 moves, eventually ending at the last anchor on Stone Quest.

Location

This route is located between Farm Alarm and Cool Cliff 170(see Reid guide)

Protection

Micro cams to # 2 Camalots with extra small to med stoppers(offsets nice)
Yosemitesam  
 
Climbed this route in 4 pitches with a 70m. I agree this is a fun route and climbs better than it looks. I thought the first 3 pitches were especially good. Pitches 4 and 5 are indeed much harder...a committing lead with decent runouts.
Jeff Scheuerell, i noticed on rockclimbing.com that you gave some pretty high praise for a route called kats on a hot tin roof. Says it's at Parkline but there is no other info anywhere. You have any details? Dec 17, 2015
Sirius
Oakland, CA
Sirius   Oakland, CA
Noticed this line yesterday while rapping Stone Quest and peering over the arete. Looks like a lot of gear was left on the upper pitches, maybe someone had to bail because of wx? An intriguing line that I'll check out in the future.

No FA info on this climb? Did you bolt this route, OP?

Thanks. Feb 28, 2011
Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
Climbed only first 3 pitches, did not have time to finish - short winter days. Linked p1,2 .
On P3 I run out of small gear - take all you have from black to yellow aliens. Pitch 3 is more than 150 feet- I know for sure since my 80M rope was not sufficient to rappel. Very interesting climb Jan 24, 2011
I ran a mini traction on the first pitch when the route was still being cleaned and set up. I was happy with the quality and it looked even better higher up. This was in the early winter '08. Feb 28, 2010