Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jeff Scheuerell, Monica Buhler, 2/10
Page Views: 1,420 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jeff Scheuerell on Feb 20, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details
Access Issue: Details

Description

As the name implies, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. This route climbs much better than it may at first appear. In fact the climbing is excellent. You may choose to do this route in 4,5, or 6 pitches. Doing it in 4 requires a 70m rope or simul climbing 15' on the first and a bit on the last. The route starts out with enjoyable climbing, 5.6, following broken rock and cracks to a bolted station about 75' up. Belay here or continue up a left facing corner. Move out right at the end of the corner and follow discontinuous cracks and seams to an A shaped roof. Climb the right side of the A into a finger crack that ends at a comfy bolted belay. Get your stoppers ready, the next pitch likes to eat up small to medium size nuts, preferably offsets. Don't miss the sideways nut placement out on the face 35 or so feet up. I also find a spot for a pink tricam at mid height. The pitch finishes with friction climbing past 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay/rap station. At this point the crux is 5.9 at most and takes great protection. But the next 2 pitches are much harder with a few runout sections. The next pitch starts out with a short 5.11 section at the first bolt then gets much easier, though runout, passing three more bolts as you angle left to a 2 bolt anchor. The last pitch angles back right with several thin 5.10 moves, eventually ending at the last anchor on Stone Quest.

Location

This route is located between Farm Alarm and Cool Cliff 170(see Reid guide)

Protection

Micro cams to # 2 Camalots with extra small to med stoppers(offsets nice)

Photos

I ran a mini traction on the first pitch when the route was still being cleaned and set up. I was happy with the quality and it looked even better higher up. This was in the early winter '08. Feb 28, 2010
Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
 
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
 
Climbed only first 3 pitches, did not have time to finish - short winter days. Linked p1,2 .
On P3 I run out of small gear - take all you have from black to yellow aliens. Pitch 3 is more than 150 feet- I know for sure since my 80M rope was not sufficient to rappel. Very interesting climb Jan 24, 2011
Sirius
Oakland, CA
Sirius   Oakland, CA
Noticed this line yesterday while rapping Stone Quest and peering over the arete. Looks like a lot of gear was left on the upper pitches, maybe someone had to bail because of wx? An intriguing line that I'll check out in the future.

No FA info on this climb? Did you bolt this route, OP?

Thanks. Feb 28, 2011
Yosemitesam  
 
Climbed this route in 4 pitches with a 70m. I agree this is a fun route and climbs better than it looks. I thought the first 3 pitches were especially good. Pitches 4 and 5 are indeed much harder...a committing lead with decent runouts.
Jeff Scheuerell, i noticed on rockclimbing.com that you gave some pretty high praise for a route called kats on a hot tin roof. Says it's at Parkline but there is no other info anywhere. You have any details? Dec 17, 2015