Type: Trad, 800 ft, Grade III
FA: Jeff Scheuerell, Josh Mucci
Page Views: 1,749 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jeff Scheuerell on Apr 17, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

P1(5.7)-Start 75' right of Homeworld. Scramble up the corner to a small ledge and step out left into an obvious crack. Follow the natural line straight up, eventually leading to the obvious Double Pine Chimney. Follow the chimney to its end (I used the branches of the pines as hand and foot holds) and continue on lower angled ground to a nice big ledge and 2 bolts (Homeworld's 2nd pitch anchor).

P2(5.8)-Alpine Corners Pitch, follow the obvious left facing corners right of P1 anchor, up and right to a nice ledge and build a gear anchor. A#2 C4 is nice here

P3(5.7)- Straight up, follow the natural line of discontinuous cracks to a small ledge and another gear anchor.(Can link p3 & p4 w/60m rope)

P4(5.10)- Continue straight up the obvious line. Just past the belay keep an eye out for a natural thread that protects a move into the crack system (thin sling is needed for thread). Crux thin move at bulge where the crack peters out. Big move into nice finger crack. Move left to bolt when crack ends then climb past another bolt to a 2 bolt belay. There is a knob you can sling to protect the last moves to the anchor.

P5(10a)- Follow the ramp at your right up a bit and right into a left facing corner. Follow corner up until you can traverse left and move into the large left facing corner that hangs directly above the anchor. Follow this corner up to an awkward flaring chimney/stem move. Keep an eye out for the thin angling crack where you can protect with a Lowe Ball and a micro C3. Continue up another 15' to a bolt. Traverse left at the bolt (exposed) into a small left facing corner. Move up a bit and left into another small left facing corner. Finally, move left again to a 2 bolt anchor. WATCH ROPE DRAG AND PREVENT GETTING YOUR ROPE STUCK, IF YOU CAN, IN THE BEND IN THE CORNER.(A 2.5 Tri-cam is very nice on this pitch and the next right before the anchor).

P6(10+)- From the anchor, climb up to the bulge and clip a bolt (the 2.5 Tri-Cam protects the move getting to the bolt). Move a bit right and make a big move to a great, if you hit it right, incut hold. Mantle up and step back left into a left facing corner. Climb up and right over corner then up and back left into a discontinuous crack. Follow the crack to its end. Continue up the face past 2 bolts to a hummock ramp. Follow the hummock ramp/ledge (keep eye out for a .5 Camalot placement for directional) to a 2 bolt belay (shares the anchor with the last pitch of Dangling Chads )

Location

This route starts 75' right of Homeworld

Protection

Very small(000C3) to #3 Camalot w/extra #1C3 to #.75 Camalots.

Stoppers(offset and micro are nice) with extra in the small/med sizes

Tri-cams are nice especially the 2.5 (there are a few places where nothing else worked)

Also used a few Lowe Balls

Lots of draws and slings for P5 (14 wouldn't hurt)

Photos