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Routes in The Red Slab

1976 Crack/chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Back Scratcher T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bumblies For Breakfast S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corner, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diamondback S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun 'n' Games T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jenga S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lounge Lizard S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
MK '74 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Pink Slip S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rattle and Scream S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rubics S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slip It In S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slip and Slide S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snakes For Snacks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spring Fever T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trundelero S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vapor Trail S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wicked Game S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Alan Prehmus, 2015
Page Views: 348 total · 38/month
Shared By: Dave Clark 5.10 on Nov 20, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Work through the steep rock at the start, avoiding the overhangs on both sides. Climb the easier, circuitous route with awkward/off-balance moves or the more strenuous direct line to surmount the bulge. The 4th bolt is left of the line to keep the rope clear of a sharp horizontal edge. Resist using a long draw here. Climbing above the 4th bolt is easier with a bit of a pull to clear the horizontal cut-out that forms a nice belay ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

There is the option to continue with a trad pitch 2 (~5.6, 80 feet?), but the last 20 feet needs industrial-weight cleaning. Double bolts are in place for an anchor. From there, a short P3 has only a few easy moves (5.2?) on trad gear before the ridge rounds to 4th then 3rd Class leading ~50 feet to the big ledge where Fun & Games P2 begins.

Location

Start on the lower west side, around left end of main Red Slab face. Go around the low point of the rock and ~50 feet slightly uphill to an overhanging bulge at the base of the rock.

Protection

P1: 8 bolts to double chain anchors at a nice ledge. It is possible to scramble up onto or off of this ledge from the gully on the left (north) near the base of Fun 'n' Games.

The optional P2 is trad to double bolted anchors.

You can rap each pitch with single 60m rope.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9-
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9-
The second pitch is easy if you have gear, but there is not much good gear near the top. The first pitch is worth climbing. The second pitch is junk even if you brought gear. May 15, 2018
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
It usually is, at least in your head. Jun 14, 2018
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.9-
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.9-
Rubics P2 and P3 are probably only worth climbing as a way to get up to the big ledge and the better climbing above it (Fun 'n' Games P2). Alan and I considered trying to clean up the P2 terrain, but I suspect that trying to remove some of the bad rock would only reveal more bad rock. Beware and stay left to climb around the worst spots. Jun 17, 2018

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