Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Alan Prehmus, 2015
Page Views: 737 total · 25/month
Shared By: Dave Clark 5.10 on Nov 20, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Work through the steep rock at the start, avoiding the overhangs on both sides. Climb the easier, circuitous route with awkward/off-balance moves or the more strenuous direct line to surmount the bulge. The 4th bolt is left of the line to keep the rope clear of a sharp horizontal edge. Resist using a long draw here. Climbing above the 4th bolt is easier with a bit of a pull to clear the horizontal cut-out that forms a nice belay ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

There is the option to continue with a trad pitch 2 (~5.6, 80 feet?), but the last 20 feet needs industrial-weight cleaning. Double bolts are in place for an anchor. From there, a short P3 has only a few easy moves (5.2?) on trad gear before the ridge rounds to 4th then 3rd Class leading ~50 feet to the big ledge where Fun & Games P2 begins.

Location

Start on the lower west side, around left end of main Red Slab face. Go around the low point of the rock and ~50 feet slightly uphill to an overhanging bulge at the base of the rock.

Protection

P1: 8 bolts to double chain anchors at a nice ledge. It is possible to scramble up onto or off of this ledge from the gully on the left (north) near the base of Fun 'n' Games.

The optional P2 is trad to double bolted anchors.

You can rap each pitch with single 60m rope.

Photos