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Routes in The Red Slab

1976 Crack/chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Back Scratcher T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bumblies For Breakfast S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corner, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diamondback S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun 'n' Games T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jenga S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lounge Lizard S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
MK '74 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Pink Slip S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rattle and Scream S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rubics S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slip It In S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slip and Slide S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snakes For Snacks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spring Fever T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trundelero S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vapor Trail S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wicked Game S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson, Guy Lords
Page Views: 1,790 total, 9/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Aug 23, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This line exemplifies the best of Red Slab climbing - long, steep, continuous, and reasonably protected. Start in the short left-facing corner at the right end of the roof. Clip a bolt on the outside edge (added in 2001) to mitigate a groundfall, then reach out around the roof for the second clip. Once you pull out around the roof, you get fun, continuous 5.9/5.10 slab climbing all the way to the anchors. There really isn't any distinct crux - the hardest bit will be different for everyone based on reach and body type. This is a "must-do" route - one of the nicest pitches of its kind in the canyon.

Protection

Seven bolts to a two-bolt anchor with rings.

Photos

Jonathan Stickel
Golden, CO
Jonathan Stickel   Golden, CO
I would not recommend this route when it is seeping. We tried it today and found that key holds are in the wet streak. I had to bail over to Spring Fever. May 21, 2017
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
There is a great yellow Metolius offset MasterCam in a small pocket protecting what was for me the distinct crux about 2/3 of the way up. An Alien or similar might also work. Mar 7, 2010
Jay Hippel
Denver, CO
Jay Hippel   Denver, CO
Wonderful climb in every way. Easily three stars. Must do. Jun 18, 2003
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
A nice route though I don't agree with Alan that it is a 3-star. The move pulling the roof at the start can go either on the right or left of the arete, left being easier on the crack up the corner. Right side I would suggest being quite stiff for 10b. The rest of the route is quite nice but I wouldn't say one of the best of its kind, seeing there really aren't any other walls like the Red Slab in the canyon. But all in all a good route. 2 stars. Sep 16, 2001