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Routes in The Red Slab

1976 Crack/chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Back Scratcher T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bumblies For Breakfast S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corner, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diamondback S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun 'n' Games T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jenga S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lounge Lizard S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
MK '74 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Pink Slip S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rattle and Scream S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rubics S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slip It In S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slip and Slide S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snakes For Snacks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spring Fever T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trundelero S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vapor Trail S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wicked Game S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
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Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Alan Nelson, Claire Mearns
Page Views: 834 total · 4/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Aug 23, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is one of the first documented routes on the Red Slab, and dates to the beginning of the modern route development period in the canyon. It was originally led on gear, and it's highly probable the general line was climbed earlier with a few points of aid in the roof. Climb a short slab to a break across the right side of the roof. A bolt in the roof and another just over the lip protect the crux of turning the roof and liebacking a right-slanting seam. Easier climbing follows the break straight up the wall with another interesting move by the fifth bolt. One more clip leads to the ledge and a shared anchor with "Diamondback". The bolts were added a few years after the initial ascent to stimulate traffic. Some will argue against them, but I've never seen anyone lead the route without the clips. As it stands, it is a fun and reasonably popular line. If you want the thrill of a gear lead, go for it. Just don't mess with the fixed pro.

Protection

Six bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings. Or do it in the style of the original ascent with a standard rack of wires and cams to #2 ("S" rated on gear).

Photos

Compared to other routes on the wall (ie. Slip and Slide) the roof seems a bit stiff for the grade and the second clip comes in the middle of the crux with ledge-fall potential. It is sort of a one-move-wonder, the climbing is easy above. Mar 27, 2002
Jessica Pemble
Yosemite, CA
Jessica Pemble   Yosemite, CA
The second clip was a bit sketchy if you're on the short side on the spectrum, but sick nonetheless. Super fun climbing above the roof! Oct 20, 2011
Jonathan Stickel
Golden, CO
Jonathan Stickel   Golden, CO
I pulled off a key hold at the lip of the roof today. Not sure if it changes the grade. I thought it was harder than 5.10c anyway. May 21, 2017

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