Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Alan Nelson, Claire Mearns
Page Views: 944 total · 4/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Aug 23, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is one of the first documented routes on the Red Slab, and dates to the beginning of the modern route development period in the canyon. It was originally led on gear, and it's highly probable the general line was climbed earlier with a few points of aid in the roof. Climb a short slab to a break across the right side of the roof. A bolt in the roof and another just over the lip protect the crux of turning the roof and liebacking a right-slanting seam. Easier climbing follows the break straight up the wall with another interesting move by the fifth bolt. One more clip leads to the ledge and a shared anchor with "Diamondback". The bolts were added a few years after the initial ascent to stimulate traffic. Some will argue against them, but I've never seen anyone lead the route without the clips. As it stands, it is a fun and reasonably popular line. If you want the thrill of a gear lead, go for it. Just don't mess with the fixed pro.

Protection

Six bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings. Or do it in the style of the original ascent with a standard rack of wires and cams to #2 ("S" rated on gear).

Photos