Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches
FA: scruff seeker
Page Views: 1,920 total · 11/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 13, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a scruffy multi-pitch trad climb in Clear Creek canyon. Unfortunately, it is not great, not even good. It lies on the SW face of The Red Slab (aka Rainbow Wall per P. Hubbel). Colorado Crags by P. Hubbel, p. 147 has an topo of a bit of this climb. When driving down the canyon, it catches the eye of a trad climber with a moderate-sized face. This is the worse of the two on this face; Fun 'n Games, is a much better. This route is loose, grungy, and even slimy when wet (P2). The finish of P2 can be scary with a large boulder perched precariously at its top. This first two pitches of this face stay shady until afternoon; however, P3 & P4 bask in sun earlier.

Approach this as for the Red Slab, parking South of US Hwy 6 just East of the bridge below The Little Eiger. I prefer the lower traverse that starts below the level of the road. Arrive below the Red Slab via the obvious trail, continue West past this on a still obvious trail. The final bit is talus-covered. The start is likely share with Fun 'n Games.

P1. Follow a sort-of-crack angling left through a bush to the left side of the obvious prow/bulge to an area with solid footholds but loose rock on the right, 5.7, 170 feet. There appears to be a sling rap in the loose gully to the left.

P2. Continue up along the large, left-facing dihedral. There is less of a crack here than it appears from the ground. Near the top, the terrain gets looser & grungier. If wet, it is quite slimy & intimidating. A #4 Camalot is nice just below the crux. A #2 Camalot protects your 2nd once you pass the crux. Belay on a large ledge. 5.8 PG-13, 100 feet.

P3. Go up a block finishing on a nice arĂȘte, 5.5, 40 feet.

P4. Move the belay about 140 feet to the left side of a large dead tree below the summit block. Fire up the shallow, right-facing dihedral/crack to the left of the dead tree. This is nice. 5.7, 40 feet.

Hike off to the far left probably 300m and angle back to the base on mostly loose, hiking terrain.

Protection

60m rope, light rack to #4 Camalot.

Photos