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Routes in The Red Slab

1976 Crack/chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Back Scratcher T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bumblies For Breakfast S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corner, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diamondback S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun 'n' Games T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lounge Lizard S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
MK '74 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Pink Slip S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rattle and Scream S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slip It In T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slip and Slide S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snakes For Snacks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spring Fever T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trundelero S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vapor Trail S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wicked Game S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Alan Nelson, Annette Bunge, Ken Trout
Page Views: 1,778 total, 9/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Aug 22, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a great, continuous, 80' pitch that is not for the meek. It originally had five bolts (you do the math for the runouts), but an additional bolt at the bottom was added in the summer of 2001 to reduce the groundfall potential. This route was established in the old-school style: on-sight, from the ground, with the protection drilled from free stances. As such, it is too run-out for your typical sportclimb, but it's got big bolts that were drilled with a Hilti.

Even though it's steep, it's a highly featured less-than-vertical slab, so falling is discouraged. With that in mind, it's got lots of holds and occasional rests. If you're comfortable on 5.10 sport routes, you'll probably enjoy this, but if you're just breaking into the grade get someone else to string it up and run it on a toprope.

Protection

Six bolts to a two bolt anchor with chains.

As of 6/16, per Lisa Montgomery: the 6 lead & 2 anchor bolts were updated with 1/2 inch stainless 5-piece Powers bolts.

Photos

Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
The 6 lead bolts and 2 anchor bolts were replaced with 1/2 inch stainless 5-piece Powers bolts. All holes were reused. Thanks to BCC for supplying the hardware. Consider donating: BCC donation link Jun 9, 2016
teece303
Highlands Ranch, CO
 
teece303   Highlands Ranch, CO
 
I led this one a long time ago (with 5 bolts). It was spicy. Still pretty proud I did it, because 10a was real climbing for me then as a youngster, I need to get back and try this thing again.

Note: there are 10a moves way past bolts on this route, at least by sport climbing standards. Phenomenal route, with some good rests, but be ready to pull 10a moves 8-10 feet beyond your last bolt. Jun 27, 2013
Dan Petty
Wheat Ridge, CO
5.10a/b
Dan Petty   Wheat Ridge, CO
5.10a/b
First bolt placement was a waste IMHO. If you fall clipping the second bolt, you would deck anyway. Nov 8, 2010
Bjorn
Leadvegas, CO
 
Bjorn   Leadvegas, CO
 
Personally I've always loved RS for its rather infrequent bolt placements. Runouts above bolts, coupled with the slow, steady, considerate style of climbing peculiar to this cliff just make me concentrate in a way I find irresistible. This route just happens to be the most Red Slab-esque in this sense. Highly recommended. Jul 8, 2009
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
A small nut would take the sting out of the slopey section between the last bolt and the anchors. Jul 14, 2003
Ditto. Nice route, but the runouts are there. Don't lead it if you are not comfortable having your feet 7-10' above the last bolt. Apr 23, 2002
I'm pretty comfortable on 5.10 and enjoyed leading this route but found it to be a bit dicey. The moves are fun and the holds are good but a slip from one of several 5.10 moves could leave you seriously bumming. It is possible to TR this route after leading the 5.9 just to the right that shares the same anchor Mar 27, 2002