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Routes in The Red Slab

1976 Crack/chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Back Scratcher T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bumblies For Breakfast S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corner, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diamondback S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun 'n' Games T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jenga S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lounge Lizard S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
MK '74 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Pink Slip S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rattle and Scream S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rubics S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slip It In S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slip and Slide S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snakes For Snacks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spring Fever T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trundelero S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vapor Trail S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wicked Game S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown adventurer
Page Views: 1,685 total · 11/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 1, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This multi-pitch trad climb is somewhat atypical for Clear Creek Canyon. It lies on the Southwest face of The Red Slab (aka Rainbow Wall per P. Hubbel). Colorado Crags by P. Hubbel, p. 147 has an topo of most of this climb. When driving down the canyon, it catches the eye of a trad climber with a moderate-sized face although it turns out to be much lower angle than it appears from a distance. There are at least 2 trad lines on this face. This is the better of the two that are on this site. 'The Corner, 5.8' to the left is marginal at best. This first pitch of this face stays shady until afternoon; however, P2 & P3 bask in sun earlier. The climbing is 2-3 pitches in length with potential to scramble off after 2 pitches; however, this appears exposed. This climb has a nice bit of slightly runout stemming on P2 sandwiched between scruffy terrain.

Approach this as for the Red Slab, parking South of US Hwy 6 just East of the bridge below The Little Eiger. I prefer the lower traverse that starts below the level of the road. Arrive below the Red Slab via the obvious trail, continue W past this on a still obvious trail. The final bit is talus-covered.

P1. Start about 30 feet right of the large chimney bordering the left side of this face in a crack-like system. Follow the features up and what-feels-like-slightly-left (though is drawn in on P. Hubbel's topo as trending right). A crack-like feature to the right seems quite brushy. There is still loose rock here. This face is low-angled enough that you could probably climb anywhere; however, this line has pro. Gain a large ledge about 150 feet up, 5.7. A #0.5 Camalot is nice for this belay.

P2. This pitch is probably PG-13 with less-than-abundant pro opportunities for the cluckers (like me) out there. Move slightly right into a large, right-facing dihedral. Use a #2 Camalot just above a bush at the start of the pitch because your next pro is 30+ feet up. Find a fixed, small Camalot at the first crux. A small cord or thin kevlar sling may allow you to thread the hole on the Camalot, but a spectra sling or sewn 9/16 inch won't work. A green Alien can fit just above it. Surmount the bulge (9-), scamper up to the crux dihedral. Alternatively, here you can move left (9, high step) or possibly right (arĂȘte) or head up the obvious dihedral. You can find an orange Alien placement left of the dihedral. If you go up the dihedral, there is a hidden finger pocket, but expect fun, delicate stemming moves hidden pro opportunities for wires. Gain a large ledge with few anchor options (yellow Alien, wire, #9 or #10 hex). Continue up the next block perhaps 30 feet to a large ledge, 5.9- or 5.9 (left variation). #0.75 & #1 Camalots & a red Alien are useful for this belay. From here, you may be able to scramble off left, but it seemed a bit exposed.

P3. Scramble up & right to a dead tree. Fire up a scruffy, steeper crack for 30 feet to the top, 5.7+, or, better, move a few feet left to a shallow, right-facing dihedral, 5.7.

Hike off to the far left probably 300m and angle back to the base on mostly loose, hiking terrain.

Update: the pitches now have bolted anchors that allow rappel descent.

Per Dave Clark 5.10: beware, at top of the P2 dihedral pitch the ~ 250 lb. rock next to the top anchors is detached.

Protection

Wires, cams to #4 Camalot, doubles in the 0.5 & 0.75 may be useful.

Photos

Had a great time on this route today which is true to its name. Led P2 and agree the runout section at the beginning isn't bad at all. I'll admit I was a little hesitant at first, but once I started, the climbing was more like scrambling. I went straight up thru the dihedral to the anchors and found good gear the entire way. Well-protected route with good positioning. Definitely worth the exposed hike above the creek, but be careful with loose rock on P1 and P3. Used a blue and yellow Mastercam with 0.4 - #4 C4 for the climb and 0.5 and 0.75 C4 for the belay anchor at the bottom of P2. Apr 3, 2016
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.8+
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.8+
This route is cleaning up but still has an adventure feel with some rockfall potential. Pitch 1 felt like 5.6 with plenty of gear options. Nothing wrong with P1, but pitch 2 is a high quality pitch and the reason to climb Fun 'n' Games. Don't shy away from P2 because of the runout mentioned in the route description. The only runout is in the 4th class start (~ 30 ft), and above that the pro is just fine with a light std rack of cams. Stopper placements are hard to find, because the cracks all seem to flare out and down just a little. Thanks to Alan P. all three pitches now have bolted top anchors, so no more ugly walk off. (The approach is still ugly, but not long.) Jun 6, 2015