Avg: 2 from 11 votes
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||2,512 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Mar 1, 2005|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Per the rockfall mitigation project has been completed. Marked as archived / Project Status: Complete on CODOT.
Project Work Resumes Nov. 13 Following Summer Shutdown
On Tuesday, Nov. 13, crews will resume work on this project, starting with rockfall mitigation on US 6 from mile points 260 to 272. Remaining work, anticipated to be completed in April 2019, includes:
scaling rock; removing scaled rock; and installing rock reinforcement, rock anchors, mesh anchors, and 160,000 squat feet of wire mesh.
Approach this as for the Red Slab, parking South of US Hwy 6 just East of the bridge below The Little Eiger. I prefer the lower traverse that starts below the level of the road. Arrive below the Red Slab via the obvious trail, continue W past this on a still obvious trail. The final bit is talus-covered.
P1. Start about 30 feet right of the large chimney bordering the left side of this face in a crack-like system. Follow the features up and what-feels-like-slightly-left (though is drawn in on P. Hubbel's topo as trending right). A crack-like feature to the right seems quite brushy. There is still loose rock here. This face is low-angled enough that you could probably climb anywhere; however, this line has pro. Gain a large ledge about 150 feet up, 5.7. A #0.5 Camalot is nice for this belay.
P2. This pitch is probably PG-13 with less-than-abundant pro opportunities for the cluckers (like me) out there. Move slightly right into a large, right-facing dihedral. Use a #2 Camalot just above a bush at the start of the pitch because your next pro is 30+ feet up. Find a fixed, small Camalot at the first crux. A small cord or thin kevlar sling may allow you to thread the hole on the Camalot, but a spectra sling or sewn 9/16 inch won't work. A green Alien can fit just above it. Surmount the bulge (9-), scamper up to the crux dihedral. Alternatively, here you can move left (9, high step) or possibly right (arête) or head up the obvious dihedral. You can find an orange Alien placement left of the dihedral. If you go up the dihedral, there is a hidden finger pocket, but expect fun, delicate stemming moves hidden pro opportunities for wires. Gain a large ledge with few anchor options (yellow Alien, wire, #9 or #10 hex). Continue up the next block perhaps 30 feet to a large ledge, 5.9- or 5.9 (left variation). #0.75 & #1 Camalots & a red Alien are useful for this belay. From here, you may be able to scramble off left, but it seemed a bit exposed.
P3. Scramble up & right to a dead tree. Fire up a scruffy, steeper crack for 30 feet to the top, 5.7+, or, better, move a few feet left to a shallow, right-facing dihedral, 5.7.
Hike off to the far left probably 300m and angle back to the base on mostly loose, hiking terrain.
Update: the pitches now have bolted anchors that allow rappel descent.
Per Dave Clark 5.10: beware, at top of the P2 dihedral pitch the ~ 250 lb. rock next to the top anchors is detached.