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Routes in The Red Slab

1976 Crack/chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Back Scratcher T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bumblies For Breakfast S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corner, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diamondback S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun 'n' Games T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jenga S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lounge Lizard S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
MK '74 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Pink Slip S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rattle and Scream S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rubics S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slip It In T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slip and Slide S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snakes For Snacks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spring Fever T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trundelero S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vapor Trail S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wicked Game S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson, Guy Lords
Page Views: 646 total, 3/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Aug 23, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This line tackles the crack through the middle of the roof in the middle of the Red Slab. Scramble up a low-angle slab to the base of the roof crack. Clip an ancient fixed pin, then stretch high to clip the first bolt. The crux comes immediately pulling over the roof. The "S" rating comes from the easier, but runout climbing above. Save a little bit for the finish, where you'll encounter a few more 5.10 moves close to protection.

Protection

Six bolts and an ancient fixed pin to a two-bolt anchor with chains.

Photos

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Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
5.10c
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
5.10c
Being tall and on TR, the roof was pretty easy. Jam, jug, jug. My partner had more trouble. There were some thoughtful, maybe 9ish moves midway. The final moves were maybe low 10, pulling up and right via a thin sidepull. What shows of the "ancient pin" looks good to me, a 5/8" angle(?) with a bit of rest, but what doesn't show may be worse. The pin can be easily backed up with gear. Mar 7, 2010