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Rubics

5.9-, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 1.9 from 16 votes
FA: Alan Prehmus, 2015
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Red Slab
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Description

Work through the steep rock at the start, avoiding the overhangs on both sides. Climb the easier, circuitous route with awkward/off-balance moves or the more strenuous direct line to surmount the bulge. The 4th bolt is left of the line to keep the rope clear of a sharp horizontal edge. Resist using a long draw here. Climbing above the 4th bolt is easier with a bit of a pull to clear the horizontal cut-out that forms a nice belay ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

There is the option to continue with a trad pitch 2 (~5.6, 80 feet?), but the last 20 feet needs industrial-weight cleaning. Double bolts are in place for an anchor. From there, a short P3 has only a few easy moves (5.2?) on trad gear before the ridge rounds to 4th then 3rd Class leading ~50 feet to the big ledge where Fun & Games P2 begins.

Location

Start on the lower west side, around left end of main Red Slab face. Go around the low point of the rock and ~50 feet slightly uphill to an overhanging bulge at the base of the rock.

Protection

P1: 8 bolts to double chain anchors at a nice ledge. It is possible to scramble up onto or off of this ledge from the gully on the left (north) near the base of Fun 'n' Games.

The optional P2 is trad to double bolted anchors.

You can rap each pitch with single 60m rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rubics from the road.
[Hide Photo] Rubics from the road.
The second pitch.
[Hide Photo] The second pitch.
A close up of the start.
[Hide Photo] A close up of the start.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] The second pitch is easy if you have gear, but there is not much good gear near the top. The first pitch is worth climbing. The second pitch is junk even if you brought gear. May 15, 2018
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
[Hide Comment] It usually is, at least in your head. Jun 14, 2018
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] Pitch 1 is good. Rubics P2 and P3 are probably only worth climbing as a way to get up to the big ledge and the better climbing above it (Fun 'n' Games P2). Alan and I considered trying to clean up the P2 terrain, but I suspect that trying to remove some of the bad rock would only reveal more bad rock. Beware and stay left to climb around the worst spots. Jun 17, 2018