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Routes in Barn Door Boulder

Type: Boulder, 14 ft
FA: FRA Brad Fauteux
Page Views: 148 total · 20/month
Shared By: Brad Fauteux on Sep 12, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

If you've done "Flyboy" and wished that there was a rad low start into it, look no further.

This variation is a great power endurance problem, with fun hard moves on a 45 degree wall.

Start down and left of "Flyboy", as for "The Oracle".
Start with a low left hand sidepull crimp, and a 3 finger right hand fingerlock/crimp in the vertical crack about 4 feet off the ground. (I actually start this problem sitting on my right knee in order to reach the right hand.) Find a high left foot right next to your left hand and pull on with difficulty. Use your core and lock off the right hand in order to snag the horizontal shelf with the left. Match hands and use a lot of core and precise footwork to traverse the horizontal for a few moves and get into the start of "Flyboy".
From here, get amped for the big move. Snag the lip and top out however you want!

Location

On the back side of the Barn Door Boulder. In between "Captain Condor" and "Ginseng For Genius".

Protection

3 pads should do it.

Photos

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