Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,917 total · 23/month
Shared By: Ladd on Jun 2, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


54 Opinions

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Description

A fantastic climb.

Start on the sloping ledge at waist height with good feet, make a hard move up and left and continue on the slopers until heading up and out left at the end for a heartbreaking move to the end jug and an easy top out.

A variation (unknown name) goes straight up and a bit harder V5? it makes excellent use on a undercling pinch hold that makes the sequence very doable.

Location

West side of area, on an overhanging arete.

Protection

Pad and a spotter
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V4+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V4+
I did the stright up variation the other day, I feel it is a solid V5, the crux coming after you get the pinch and go to the triangle slot at the top that when hit just right forms a good crimp, I fel this way is more fun then the regular Whale's Tail. Aug 9, 2009
Sean Kurnas  
 
Could somebody clarify the difference between the variation and the 'original' climb? Does the original version go left and squeeze between the trees and the rock, or does it finish by reaching right from the triangular hold to the easy crack?

Thanks! Jul 21, 2014
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
Sent the v5 var. which was quite good! Fun movement with the crux at the top

Sounds like the distinction between the two variations is that the 5 follows the prow all the way up, using the undercling pinch, while the 4 moves left after the good slopers, avoiding the pinch Oct 18, 2015
Graham O.  
 
Awesome problem. Lot of variety for 15 feet. Jul 31, 2016