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Routes in Barn Door Boulder

A Cheval V0- 4-
Ahab Calling V3 6A
Bad Ladder V3- 6A
Barn Door V2 5+
Barn Door Direct Direct V5 6C
Barn Ladder, The V3 6A
Captain Condor V5 6C
Crimp Ladder V3-4 6A+
Dog Tracks V0 4
Easy Rollin' V3 6A
Flyboy V6- 7A
Gatsby V0 4
Ginseng for Genius V9-10 7C+
Hemlock Crack V0 4
Horse Shoe Squares V1 5
Lazy Man's Dyno V1+ 5
Ledge Line V0 4
Lost in Translation V4+ 6B+
Minty Floss V6- 7A
Oracle, The V7 7A+
Pine Tree Crack V0 4
Pound for Pound V3 6A
Randy Moss V5-6 6C+
Savak V0-1 4+
Slabmaster V0+ 4+
Slippery Corner V0 4
Starboy V8-9 7B+
Underdog V4+ 6B+
Whale Calling Condor V5 6C
Whale's Tail, The V4+ 6B+
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Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,858 total · 23/month
Shared By: Ladd on Jun 2, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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A fantastic climb.

Start on the sloping ledge at waist height with good feet, make a hard move up and left and continue on the slopers until heading up and out left at the end for a heartbreaking move to the end jug and an easy top out.

A variation (unknown name) goes straight up and a bit harder V5? it makes excellent use on a undercling pinch hold that makes the sequence very doable.


West side of area, on an overhanging arete.


Pad and a spotter
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I did the stright up variation the other day, I feel it is a solid V5, the crux coming after you get the pinch and go to the triangle slot at the top that when hit just right forms a good crimp, I fel this way is more fun then the regular Whale's Tail. Aug 9, 2009
Sean Kurnas  
Could somebody clarify the difference between the variation and the 'original' climb? Does the original version go left and squeeze between the trees and the rock, or does it finish by reaching right from the triangular hold to the easy crack?

Thanks! Jul 21, 2014
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
Sent the v5 var. which was quite good! Fun movement with the crux at the top

Sounds like the distinction between the two variations is that the 5 follows the prow all the way up, using the undercling pinch, while the 4 moves left after the good slopers, avoiding the pinch Oct 18, 2015
Graham O.  
Awesome problem. Lot of variety for 15 feet. Jul 31, 2016

More About The Whale's Tail