Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,039 total · 8/month
Shared By: Ladd on Jun 3, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

Grab the quartz holds above your head, hit the hold up and right pick some feet and throw. Classic problem, gets way easier the taller you are (felt V2 for me at 6ft, but guidebook gives it V4)

This is a great problem that makes you look like a stud when you grab the jug on the lip and swing out.

Location

Start left of Whale's Tail approximately 15 feet at two quartz holds a little higher than your head.

Protection

Pad, and a decent spotter for the swinging fall if you blow the dyno

Photos

matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V3
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V3
with some weird feet and a drop knee i found this can actually be done as a really long static move... Apr 13, 2009
Lanky
Tired
Lanky   Tired
I do this static as well. For taller folks it should go with no swing. Apr 13, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V3
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V3
This should be changed to V2 or v3. This would be the stand start to the V8 sit start called Ginseng for Genius V8, which start below on a crimp and sloper crimp.

If someone could change this it would be great! Apr 30, 2012
Eli .
GMC3500
  V3
Eli .   GMC3500
  V3
Definitely not V4, still a fun problem. Aug 7, 2015