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Routes in Barn Door Boulder

Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,050 total · 10/month
Shared By: matthewWallace on Oct 16, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

Grab the good hold with your left and a slopey hold with your right about head height (I am 6 feet). Pick from some feet I would recommend a high right foot. pull on and throw to the sloping jug up and right, hit it hold on and top out.

I have not done this route but have tried it and come close, it is hard! This has all but been forgotten but I was flipping through the old Rumney guide book and this problem was in their so everyone go try it, its fun.

Location [Suggest Change]

On the Barn Door Boulder, on the short steep side just left of Captain Condor (V5) and right of Easy Rollin' (V3). Locate the route by locating the obvious huge side pull of Captain Condor and this route is barely left.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Pad and spotter for the possible swinging fall.

Photos

Mike Robinson
Moab, UT
 
Mike Robinson   Moab, UT
 
can be done static too May 4, 2013
eddysamson  
 
Is there an extended start to this that's been done before? Today my buddy added 2 moves onto it from the left and climbing right in to the usual starting holds. Adds a hard move into the slot left hand hold for this. He said he thought it made it like a 7. I thought it looked cool, better than just doing the one big move. He wanted to call it Fly By if its a new extension. Oct 3, 2015
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
It has probably been climbed but not documented. Did it start on the starting holds of Easy Rollin? Oct 4, 2015
eddysamson  
 
Close I think, looks like on the Easy Rollin page that starts lower then what he did. He started in the same seam the Fly Boy starting holds are on, but further to the left in the vertical crack of Easy Rollin. He started crossed, first move right hand to Fly Boy right hand start, second move fall in to the left hand slot of Fly Boy (decently hard move), then do Fly Boy. Oct 5, 2015
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
That sounds pretty cool! Easy Rollin' starts in that same seam I believe. Ill have to try it next time I am at the pound. Oct 5, 2015
eddysamson  
 
It looked cool, I'll probably get on it next time I'm out there but I was losing skin fast on Fly Boy so I stopped working it. Here's a bad cell phone video I got of his send: youtu.be/Di982eTPPWw Oct 5, 2015
Eli
GMC3500
  V6
Eli   GMC3500
  V6
If you think you're going to send, scrape the leaves off the top before you get up there on route. It will make your life far easier. Nov 13, 2015
Brad Fauteux
Henniker, NH
  V5
Brad Fauteux   Henniker, NH
  V5
The Winter Variation: After sticking the big move position your feet in the Captain Condor slot and cross under to a sloper slot From here twist your body and fall into the jug at the top of Captain Condor, match and drop off. This movement is actually really fun and seems to flow well. Jan 10, 2017

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