Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Unknown - BITD
Page Views: 2,071 total · 16/month
Shared By: GarrettM on Nov 8, 2008
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

This is a recently cleaned ('08) route the uphill side of the barn door boulder. I'm sure it has been done years back but this is a great new one to try. This thing is a slopers paradise.

Updated description from Matthew Wallace since holds changed - Sit start with the two crimps and move up to the next good crimp with your left, from there traverse out right using the slopers and the gaston crimp to reach a big positive sloper 2/3's up the arete. Now here is the crux, get your feet situated and match a little crimp, pull hard and stick the jug horn at the top, finish off the easy top out.

Location

on the backside of the barndoor boulder. look for the mossy, blute arete that moves up left till it gets steep. start it just right of a corner in the middle of the face.

Protection

spotter, pad

Photos

matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V5-6
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V5-6
I really believe that with a few more ascents and a little bit of publicity this could become a Rumney classic, it is a different style of route for the bouldering in the Rumney area, because it is a pure slopey route and that is very different for the pound. Dec 24, 2008
GarrettM
bedford, nh
  V5-6
GarrettM   bedford, nh
  V5-6
So I noticed that a foothold had broken off near the start sometime last winter. Ive tried every combination but by the 3rd move i get stuck without it. I havnt been able to sent it since but the broken flake definatly increased the grade Mar 3, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V5-6
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V5-6
This route has changed since the description was written, the sharks tooth hold is no longer there, one of the start crimps broke leaving the start different and the foot Garrett mentions above. So here is a newer updated description to go along with the one above:

Sit start with the two crimps and move up to the next good crimp with your left, from there traverse out right using the slopers and the gaston crimp to reach a big positive sloper 2/3's up the arete. Now here is the crux, get your feet situated and match a little crimp, pull hard and stick the jug horn at the top, finish off the easy top out.

I think the route climbs better now, post breakages. Now is in a very solid state and I don't foresee any more exfoliation in its near future. Climb this route. Apr 23, 2013
Jamie Re
Providence, RI
  V5-6
Jamie Re   Providence, RI
  V5-6
Great route! Super fun. Oct 22, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V5-6
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V5-6
The right hand starting crimp in no longer there, but in its place is a jug. It does not change the grade of the route at all, expect to make the start more obvious and easier to reach as the jug is a few inches lower. Apr 21, 2018