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Routes in Barn Door Boulder

A Cheval V0- 4-
Ahab Calling V3 6A
Bad Ladder V3 6A
Barn Door V2 5+
Barn Door Direct Direct V5 6C
Barn Ladder, The V3 6A
Captain Condor V5 6C
Crimp Ladder V3-4 6A+
Dog Tracks V0 4
Easy Rollin' V3 6A
Flyboy V6 7A
Gatsby V0 4
Ginseng for Genius V9-10 7C+
Hemlock Crack V0 4
Horse Shoe Squares V1 5
Lazy Man's Dyno V1+ 5
Ledge Line V0 4
Lost in Translation V4+ 6B+
Minty Floss V6- 7A
Oracle, The V7 7A+
Pine Tree Crack V0 4
Pound for Pound V3 6A
Randy Moss V5-6 6C+
Savak V0-1 4+
Slabmaster V0+ 4+
Slippery Corner V0 4
Starboy V8-9 7B+
Underdog V4+ 6B+
Whale Calling Condor V5 6C
Whale's Tail, The V4+ 6B+
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 980 total, 9/month
Shared By: matthewWallace on Dec 19, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

I haven't done this route, I have worked on it though, I just think it should be included. Sit start on a huge side pull and undercling, pull up to side pull/gaston in vertical seem, top out up and right. This routes starting feet are desperately small which makes the first move in my opinion the crux, I also feel like to be short would be a distinct advantage at the start. This route is what could be defined as intricate because of the precise movements that are required, to send the route.

Location

On West side of the Barn Door Boulder. Easy to pick out because of the big side pull and undercling that are used for the start 2 feet off the ground.

Protection

Pad.

Photos

matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
Finally sent this thing today after many years of on and off, sporadic attempts. For a long time I tried the left knee scum beta, I always felt close this way but could never get it to work. Today I tried a heel hook out right and moving up with the right hand instead of left and sent it in a handful of goes... Lesson learned don't lock yourself into specific beta, keep an open mind :)

Also, I always thought this was going to feel way harder then v5 when I sent, however, now I agree with that grade, solid v5. A very good boulder problem. Sep 5, 2013
GarrettM
bedford, nh
GarrettM   bedford, nh
gods joke to climbers. i can maybe get my ass off the ground 1 in 10 attempts Mar 3, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
I cant figure this thing out the start is so weird! Sep 1, 2009