Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,089 total · 9/month
Shared By: matthewWallace on Dec 19, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

I haven't done this route, I have worked on it though, I just think it should be included. Sit start on a huge side pull and undercling, pull up to side pull/gaston in vertical seem, top out up and right. This routes starting feet are desperately small which makes the first move in my opinion the crux, I also feel like to be short would be a distinct advantage at the start. This route is what could be defined as intricate because of the precise movements that are required, to send the route.

Location

On West side of the Barn Door Boulder. Easy to pick out because of the big side pull and undercling that are used for the start 2 feet off the ground.

Protection

Pad.

Photos

matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V5
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V5
I cant figure this thing out the start is so weird! Sep 1, 2009
GarrettM
bedford, nh
GarrettM   bedford, nh
gods joke to climbers. i can maybe get my ass off the ground 1 in 10 attempts Mar 3, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V5
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V5
Finally sent this thing today after many years of on and off, sporadic attempts. For a long time I tried the left knee scum beta, I always felt close this way but could never get it to work. Today I tried a heel hook out right and moving up with the right hand instead of left and sent it in a handful of goes... Lesson learned don't lock yourself into specific beta, keep an open mind :)

Also, I always thought this was going to feel way harder then v5 when I sent, however, now I agree with that grade, solid v5. A very good boulder problem. Sep 5, 2013
Eli .
GMC3500
 
Eli .   GMC3500
 
The knee scum beta is really good if you have a knee bar pad, otherwise that surface is a little greasy from people doing Flyboy. Apr 24, 2018