Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 490 total · 8/month
Shared By: matthewWallace on Nov 8, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Stand start with a left hand on a chip crimp and right hand on any of the crimps in the horizontal. Pull your feet onto the wall and dyno straight up to the quartz jug. Then top out through dirty rock with the all the holds you need cleaned off.

Location

Located between Ginseng for Genius and Easy Rollin' with an obvious chip for your left hand.

Protection

Pad and Spotter.

Photos

Brad Fauteux
Henniker, NH
  V5-6
Brad Fauteux   Henniker, NH  
  V5-6
Matt, did you use the left hand sidepull pinch for this problem? Feels really hard to generate any power off the feet and the hands. Sep 23, 2017
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V5+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V5+
Brad, there is a chip I used for my left hand. Fit about three fingers and has a decent incut. Sep 24, 2017
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V5+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V5+
Troy, where did you add the sit start? Oct 31, 2018
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V5+
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V5+
Matt I just started as for "The Oracle" and did the first move of that then traversed left into "Lost in Translation" Felt a lot harder than Starboy so its in the V9/10 category for sure. Nov 5, 2018