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Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 993
Submitted By: matthewWallace on Oct 16, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Bad photo but it shows the starting holds


Grab the good hold with your left and a slopey hold with your right about head height (I am 6 feet). Pick from some feet I would recommend a high right foot. pull on and throw to the sloping jug up and right, hit it hold on and top out.

I have not done this route but have tried it and come close, it is hard! This has all but been forgotten but I was flipping through the old Rumney guide book and this problem was in their so everyone go try it, its fun.


On the Barn Door Boulder, on the short steep side just left of Captain Condor (V5) and right of Easy Rollin' (V3). Locate the route by locating the obvious huge side pull of Captain Condor and this route is barely left.


Pad and spotter for the possible swinging fall.

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By Mike Robinson
From: Worcester, MA
May 4, 2013

can be done static too
By eddysamson
Oct 3, 2015

Is there an extended start to this that's been done before? Today my buddy added 2 moves onto it from the left and climbing right in to the usual starting holds. Adds a hard move into the slot left hand hold for this. He said he thought it made it like a 7. I thought it looked cool, better than just doing the one big move. He wanted to call it Fly By if its a new extension.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Oct 4, 2015

It has probably been climbed but not documented. Did it start on the starting holds of Easy Rollin?
By eddysamson
Oct 5, 2015

Close I think, looks like on the Easy Rollin page that starts lower then what he did. He started in the same seam the Fly Boy starting holds are on, but further to the left in the vertical crack of Easy Rollin. He started crossed, first move right hand to Fly Boy right hand start, second move fall in to the left hand slot of Fly Boy (decently hard move), then do Fly Boy.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Oct 5, 2015

That sounds pretty cool! Easy Rollin' starts in that same seam I believe. Ill have to try it next time I am at the pound.
By eddysamson
Oct 5, 2015

It looked cool, I'll probably get on it next time I'm out there but I was losing skin fast on Fly Boy so I stopped working it. Here's a bad cell phone video I got of his send:
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Nov 13, 2015
rating: V6 7A

If you think you're going to send, scrape the leaves off the top before you get up there on route. It will make your life far easier.
By Brad Fauteux
From: Henniker, NH
Jan 10, 2017
rating: V5 6C

The Winter Variation: After sticking the big move position your feet in the Captain Condor slot and cross under to a sloper slot From here twist your body and fall into the jug at the top of Captain Condor, match and drop off. This movement is actually really fun and seems to flow well.

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