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Routes in Crystal Wall Area

Arch Traverse S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Central Pillar of Easy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crystal Blue Persuasion S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Crystal Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Crystal Wall Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Family Friendly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Friction Affliction T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ice House Roof S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice House Roof Direct S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Independence Wall S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
More Affliction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Red Dawn S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
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Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA July 4th, 2017 Ney and Betsy Grant
Page Views: 545 total · 37/month
Shared By: Ney Grant on Jul 4, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climb beckons as you walk by. You may not have planned to climb it, but if its in your grade you'll probably stop and start flaking your rope.

The first ascent of Independence Wall was on Independence Day, 2017. Most multipitch climbs at Slick Rock are slightly or way runout - it is the character of the area. However Independence Wall (and Ice House Roof) is well protected, plus this one has rings at 30M and 62M so you can do it with one 70M rope. It is an excellent introduction climb before you do, for example, Crystal Wall Route or Crystal Blue Persuasion, both a bit more bold. The climb is only two pitches, or one long 62M pitch. It does not top out, you come down the way you came up.

The first pitch starts at 5.8 and then 5.7. The second pitch starts with a headwall, but it is highly featured on great rock and goes at 5.7.

You can also use the anchor at the first belay to TR the fatty corner crack to the left, but it is easier than it looks.

Location

This is just to the left of Crystal Chute and to the right of big fat crack that is formed by a large pinnacle. This climb is not on the topo, but is between climbs 3 and 4.

Another way to locate the climb is to, as you walk along the base trail, watch for a large dike that slopes down in about a 45 degree diagonal from high on the dome. The dike hits the deck right at the start of Independence Wall.

Protection

All bolts - lots of bolts (compared with other climbs in the area). Double bolts and rings at both anchors.

Photos

Ney Grant
Pollock Pines, CA
 
Ney Grant   Pollock Pines, CA
 
We recently put up this route and the shipment from Fixe Hardware didn't arrive in time so I didn't have the stainless steel rings for each belay. At each belay right now are one screwlink on each belay hanger (4 in total). This works but the screwlinks are not really aligned with the rope for easy pulling.

I did put carabiners on each screwlink but the second ascent party (who shall remain nameless) took the carabiners as climbing booty. (I should add they feel bad and they have offered to send them back to me).

Anyway. If you plan to climb this route please let me know and I can send you the four rings. Then with a small wrench you can put the rings on the screwlinks and the climb will be done and in perfect shape! Jul 10, 2017
bob branscomb
Lander, WY
  5.8
bob branscomb   Lander, WY
  5.8
Kristi and I did this route in July 12, 2017..real nice addition...well bolted and beautiful rock. Jul 14, 2017
As with many of the routes on Slick Rock, the crux is at the start. After having done some of the PG and R routes on the rock, it was quite enjoyable to actually have 'enough' bolts!

We had the pleasure of meeting Ney a couple of weeks ago at the dome and were delighted to have the opportunity to thank him in person for all of their hard work. As a very, very small part of a very, very large THANK YOU, today we brought four SS rappel rings and completed the anchors. Jul 31, 2017
Ney Grant
Pollock Pines, CA
 
Ney Grant   Pollock Pines, CA
 
Chris and Freda,

Thank you for installing rings! I like the feeling that that climb is complete.

What else did you do there and which climbs did you like?

You mentioned Crest Jewel. I brought it up with Betsy and since we had a week planned in the eastern sierra last week and we had never done it, we did it. If you want info you can email me at ney at ney dot com. Slick Rock is very much like the rock on Crest Jewel - vs. some of the golden plates and edges of Tuolumne slabs. Aug 1, 2017

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