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Routes in Crystal Wall Area

Arch Traverse S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Crystal Blue Persuasion S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Crystal Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Crystal Wall Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Family Friendly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Friction Affliction T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ice House Roof S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice House Roof Direct S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Independence Wall S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
More Affliction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Red Dawn S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Sport, 400 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA 1980 Ron Vardanega, Don Garett. Historical Note: This entire climb was first done with two 1/4" bolts in 1980. Ron Vardanega and Ney Grant rebolted
Page Views: 448 total · 24/month
Shared By: Ney Grant on Jun 24, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a great 5.7 face climb on the steep main wall up knobs, flakes and sweet little pockets. It gets runout as it progresses but it gets easier too. Start the climb from the ground and clip two easy bolts on the way to the top of the pinnacle. From the top of the pinnacle step across onto the steep 5.7 main wall. Note that it is 70 meters (a bit more actually) from the ground to the two-bolt belay. Remember to tie in or tie a back up knot. As the lead climber reaches the belay the belayer can step up and left to give more rope. If you are using a shorter rope then stop and belay at the top of the pinnacle.

Location

To find the climb hike the base trail until you have to climb up between two boulders. Take a hard right at the top of the boulders and the climb starts there.


On the topo image found under "Crystal Wall Area", this is climb number 3.

Protection

Typically all bolts. There is a horizontal crack between bolts one and two you can put a 1" cam into, or skip it.

Photos

Ney Grant
Pollock Pines, CA
 
Ney Grant   Pollock Pines, CA
 
Evan,

This is how that happened (long pitch). As of 2015 this was an unnamed climb with two rusty 1/4" bolts on the whole thing. No belay stations, etc. Probably had seen very few ascents, ever. The FA Ron Vardanega and I rebolted and added bolts top-down (no way were either of us going to climb it with the old bolts).

Where one of the original bolts was we added another bolt for a belay station, and estimated that it would probably make it to the ground. It did on rappel with rope stretch, but as we found out later, not when going up.

So now those two bolts need to be moved, not an insignificant task, or perhaps an intermediate belay station added. Maybe some day... Aug 22, 2017
This is indeed an old-school Tuolumne-style face climb. There are bolts when it's harder, but huge runouts when it's easy. There are no bolts on the second pitch...

The first pitch is about 73-74M, however. I led it on a brand new Mammut 70m rope, and trailed a Beal 70. My belayer had to simul about 10' up to get me to the chains, and we tied in close. I can't really see why they would put the anchor just out of reach of even a 70, since it could just as easily been 5M below...

We rapped the rap line about 40' to the right, and it was fine. Two smooth 65+M raps to the flat ground & no rope snag drama.

Thanks for the route! Aug 20, 2017
GizzardJones
Rancho Cordova,CA
 
GizzardJones   Rancho Cordova,CA
 
Loved this old school runout climb. Careful rapping off down the direct line, next time I'd suggest rapping climber right to avoid the top of the Pinnacle and getting the rope caught (like we did)

Had to re-lead back up to get rope uncaught, then down-climbed to a bolt to lower off. If anyone sees a blue biner it was because of that. Enjoy Jul 21, 2016