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Routes in Crystal Wall Area

Arch Traverse S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Crystal Blue Persuasion S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Crystal Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Crystal Wall Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Friction Affliction T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ice House Roof S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice House Roof Direct S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Independence Wall S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
More Affliction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Red Dawn S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA 1980 Bob Branscomb, Kim Treadaway, Ron Vardanega
Page Views: 551 total, 32/month
Shared By: Ney Grant on Jun 24, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A superb face climb on almost perfect granite that follows subtle features of the rock. Many will climb to the first anchor (double-rings) and rap off, although you can continue (tend to the right) on fun and easy runout climbing past one bolt to a double bolt belay station and then on to the top. It requires two ropes to rap off the first pitch. Note that it is easy to miss the last bolt before the first belay - its out right seemingly a little off route. If you want the same experience as the first ascensionists who were tired from hand drilling, don’t use the belay station and instead lay down flat on the upper pitch for more friction and belay from there.

Location

To find the route, walk along the base trail until you see a blank, white granite wall that you have to climb up to reach. It is just past the large pinnacle leaning on the wall that has two bolts on it (Crystal Blue Persuasion). The climb to the bench where the climb starts is a low fifth class scramble.

The granite near the ground (perhaps where snow piles up) is a little looser than the granite just 20 feet up on the dome. Since this climb starts up high, the granite can only be described as immaculate, the whole way. Super fun.

On the topo image found under "Crystal Wall Area", this is climb number 2.

Protection

Typically all bolts. There is a tiny roof/flake between bolts two and three were you can optionally put a 1/4" to 1/2" cam.

This was done originally in the 1980's and no bolts were added - so this is a little "old school" and bold. It is not way runout, but there may be some sense of relief as you reach each bolt.

Photos

Alex Kirkpatrick
  5.9 R
Alex Kirkpatrick  
  5.9 R
Sweet route! And yep missed the last bolt. It is about 10' up and to the right. I was expecting it to be higher.
Good test for the head. Sep 18, 2017