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Routes in Crystal Wall Area

Arch Traverse S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Crystal Blue Persuasion S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Crystal Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Crystal Wall Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Friction Affliction T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ice House Roof S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice House Roof Direct S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Independence Wall S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
More Affliction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Red Dawn S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FA First pitch 1981 Bob Branscomb, Kim Treadaway. Second pitch 1989 Bob Branscomb, P. Brown, K. Stouffer.
Page Views: 184 total, 11/month
Shared By: Ney Grant on Jun 24, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Thin 5.10 face moves bring you past two bolts then it gradually gets easier. The route heads up and a little left, then up water streaks past a the big dike and hard right to the first belay at the rap chains (not the double bolts) shared with Friction Affliction. The route from here heads up and left for a romp across the 5.7/5.8 face seeking out flake and roof features large enough to accept pro. Aim for the left end of a small, long roof (a big section of which fell off September, 2015) and then up to a vertical flake system. From there you should be able to see the belay anchor. The pitch ends and at the top anchor of Red Dawn, two uneven bolts with rings and screwlinks. The third pitch heads up and slightly right past one bolt on very easy climbing, then up and left to the very top anchor / rap chains

Once at the top you can rap straight down in two raps with two 70M ropes or rap back down the climb with shorter ropes in three raps (or walk off).

Or you can skip P3 by heading dead right at the top of P2 to the chained rap station on Friction Affliction.

Location

Look for a sandy spot to the right of a large boulder. There is lots of debris from rockfall of 2015.

On the topo image found under "Crystal Wall Area", this is climb number 6.

Protection

All bolts first pitch. Bring small pro for second pitch. Some of the placements are not the best so the second pitch isn't for the 5.7/5.8 leader.

Photos

BruceB
Reno, NV
 
BruceB   Reno, NV
 
Great 1st pitch. The second pitch trad pro is horrible. Next time we'll try going to the 1st pitch anchors of Red Dawn followed by the 2nd pitch of Red Dawn.

The topo shows 5 bolts on P1, but I think there was at least 7 bolts. Sep 18, 2017