Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
FA: Ney and Betsy Grant, June 2018
Page Views: 1,716 total · 36/month
Shared By: Ney Grant on Jun 10, 2018
Admins: Lurker -, Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Be aware of Caldor Fire closures - Up to date info here: fs.usda.gov/eldorado/ Details

Description

This is a fun easy route that uses both bolts and some trad gear.  This would be a good first lead.  Start at the base of the pillar and follow 3 or 4 four bolts (one possible cam placement) to a two bolt belay (35m).  Move into the massive crack for about 25 feet (3-4" cams), then leave it moving straight up past two bolts to two small roofs.  You can use cams under each roof.  Surmount the roofs (crux) and pass one bolt to the two bolt belay (35m).  The next pitch moves up easier terrain past one bolt to "Ice House Roof".  Except you head to an easier section of the roof - veer right a little as you head up and look for a shallow section of the roof where there is a slab on top that has a wide crack.  You can protect with cams there, then move up to the third two bolt belay (35m).  The last pitch veers left past one bolt to share the top anchors with Ice House Roof at the top of a thin black water streak (15m).

You can use one 70m rope to rap the route.  However take care when pulling the rope down to the first belay as the rope can slide past you down into the big crack and get stuck.  Have one of your party tied into a long sling and stand in the crack to catch the rope and prevent it from sliding past.

Location

This goes up the pillar / buttress on the right of the arch.  Ice House Roof goes up the left side of the Arch, Central Pillar of Frenzy goes up the right side, out on the buttress.  This is the first climb you come to as you leave the Slick Rock Slabs area and walk north to the Crystal Wall area.  You'll know the arch when you come to it.

Protection

One set cams from 0.5" to 4". Quickdraws.

Photos