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Routes in Crystal Wall Area

Arch Traverse S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Central Pillar of Easy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crystal Blue Persuasion S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Crystal Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Crystal Wall Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Family Friendly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Friction Affliction T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ice House Roof S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice House Roof Direct S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Independence Wall S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
More Affliction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Red Dawn S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
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Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Ney and Betsy Grant, June 2018
Page Views: 118 total · 51/month
Shared By: Ney Grant on Jun 10, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a fun easy route that uses both bolts and some trad gear.  This would be a good first lead.  Start at the base of the pillar and follow 3 or 4 four bolts (one possible cam placement) to a two bolt belay (35m).  Move into the massive crack for about 25 feet (3-4" cams), then leave it moving straight up past two bolts to two small roofs.  You can use cams under each roof.  Surmount the roofs (crux) and pass one bolt to the two bolt belay (35m).  The next pitch moves up easier terrain past one bolt to "Ice House Roof".  Except you head to an easier section of the roof - veer right a little as you head up and look for a shallow section of the roof where there is a slab on top that has a wide crack.  You can protect with cams there, then move up to the third two bolt belay (35m).  The last pitch veers left past one bolt to share the top anchors with Ice House Roof at the top of a thin black water streak (15m).

You can use one 70m rope to rap the route.  However take care when pulling the rope down to the first belay as the rope can slide past you down into the big crack and get stuck.  Have one of your party tied into a long sling and stand in the crack to catch the rope and prevent it from sliding past.

Location

This goes up the pillar / buttress on the right of the arch.  Ice House Roof goes up the left side of the Arch, Central Pillar of Frenzy goes up the right side, out on the buttress.  This is the first climb you come to as you leave the Slick Rock Slabs area and walk north to the Crystal Wall area.  You'll know the arch when you come to it.

Protection

One set cams from 0.5" to 4". Quickdraws.

Photos

Alex W
  5.5
Alex W  
  5.5
A bit run out on pitch 3 between the bolt and roof (in keeping with other multi-pitch climbs on the dome), but the climbing is super easy (5.3?). Jun 18, 2018
Ney Grant
Pollock Pines, CA
  5.6
Ney Grant   Pollock Pines, CA
  5.6
Hi Alex - we started this route last fall but dropped our wrench in a crack and just finished it last weekend, so you are undoubtable the first to climb it. I think we even went back down the rope and added a bolt to that pitch - we were trying to add a relatively easy climb in that area with half-rope (35m) belay stations. Maybe I'll wait for others to chime in before adding one (though it may take a while - not a lot of people climbing out there). Are you sure you would rate the climb 5.5? Most of it yes, but I don't want any beginning climbers to get into trouble on the first or second pitch, where I think there is 5.6 climbing. Jun 18, 2018
Brian Kendzior  
  5.7
Apparently we hadn't updated Mtn Project, saw the shiny new route and went up blind.

Moves below the first 2 bolts are definitely in the 5.6 / 5.7 area, but it mellows out real quick. Third and fourth pitches are heady runouts, keeping with the character of the dome.

Didn't see the anchor at the end of the 4th pitch, ended up topping out and heading back down the right side of the dome. Thanks for the adventure! Aug 7, 2018

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