All Locations > California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corridor > Crystal Basin > Slick Rock Dome > Crystal Wall Area
Avg: 3 from 4 votes
Routes in Crystal Wall Area
|Arch Traverse S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Crystal Blue Persuasion S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Crystal Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Crystal Wall Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Friction Affliction T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Ice House Roof S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Ice House Roof Direct S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Independence Wall S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|More Affliction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Red Dawn S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X|
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||FA First pitch 1980 Bob Branscomb, Kim Treadaway, M. Treadaway|
|Page Views:||251 total, 15/month|
|Shared By:||Ney Grant on Jun 24, 2016|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionTo the right of the steep-start More Affliction is Friction Affliction, a multi-pitch climb that shares the same belay/rappel chains as More Affliction. The first pitch is all bolts and it uses the two-bolt anchor of Arch Traverse but not as a belay station - just clip one of the bolts and keep going. From the first belay station head straight up the obvious crack/flake system (large pro), then up and over the small roof for a short section of face past one bolt near the big Ice House Roof to the next belay at the rap chains above the corner of the roof. For P3 head up and left past one bolt to the double bolt anchor / rap chains. P3 climbing is runout but easy and note the one bolt is lined up between the two belay stations.
Once at the top you can rap straight down in two raps with two 70M ropes or rap back down the climb with shorter ropes in three raps (or walk off).
FA Bob Branscomb allowed the addition of much needed bolt number one, which is still pretty high up in order to protect a groundfall once near the original bolt one.
Historical note: This climb was rebolted in 2015 but was a bit of a mess. It had 1/4" bolts but was rebolted in the 90's without removing the old bolts. So it was double bolted with up to four bolts at belay stations. Even the 90's bolts were rusted so the entire route was bolted with stainless steel bolts and hardware.
LocationBetween the steep-start More Affliction and Ice House Roof, which has a bolt closer to the ground. The first bolt on this route is fairly high up. The second bolt is to the left of the first one.
On the topo image found under "Crystal Wall Area", this is climb number 7.