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Routes in Crystal Wall Area

Arch Traverse S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Crystal Blue Persuasion S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Crystal Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Crystal Wall Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Friction Affliction T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ice House Roof S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice House Roof Direct S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Independence Wall S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
More Affliction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Red Dawn S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FA First pitch 1980 Bob Branscomb, Kim Treadaway, M. Treadaway
Page Views: 251 total, 15/month
Shared By: Ney Grant on Jun 24, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

To the right of the steep-start More Affliction is Friction Affliction, a multi-pitch climb that shares the same belay/rappel chains as More Affliction. The first pitch is all bolts and it uses the two-bolt anchor of Arch Traverse but not as a belay station - just clip one of the bolts and keep going. From the first belay station head straight up the obvious crack/flake system (large pro), then up and over the small roof for a short section of face past one bolt near the big Ice House Roof to the next belay at the rap chains above the corner of the roof. For P3 head up and left past one bolt to the double bolt anchor / rap chains. P3 climbing is runout but easy and note the one bolt is lined up between the two belay stations.

Once at the top you can rap straight down in two raps with two 70M ropes or rap back down the climb with shorter ropes in three raps (or walk off).

FA Bob Branscomb allowed the addition of much needed bolt number one, which is still pretty high up in order to protect a groundfall once near the original bolt one.

Historical note: This climb was rebolted in 2015 but was a bit of a mess. It had 1/4" bolts but was rebolted in the 90's without removing the old bolts. So it was double bolted with up to four bolts at belay stations. Even the 90's bolts were rusted so the entire route was bolted with stainless steel bolts and hardware.

Location

Between the steep-start More Affliction and Ice House Roof, which has a bolt closer to the ground. The first bolt on this route is fairly high up. The second bolt is to the left of the first one.

On the topo image found under "Crystal Wall Area", this is climb number 7.

Protection

P1: All bolts. P2: medium/large gear. P3: All bolts.

Photos

Matt D
Jay, NY
  5.7 PG13
Matt D   Jay, NY
  5.7 PG13
Rapping the route with 60m double ropes is straight forward - down the way you came up.

Not sure why people would recommend the rap route that is straight down from the top anchor and requires double 70m ropes. Who carries double 70s, anyway?

Fun route. Jun 22, 2017