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Routes in Crystal Wall Area

Arch Traverse S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Crystal Blue Persuasion S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Crystal Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Crystal Wall Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Family Friendly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Friction Affliction T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ice House Roof S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice House Roof Direct S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Independence Wall S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
More Affliction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Red Dawn S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 172 total, 10/month
Shared By: Ney Grant on Jun 24, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb up Ice House Roof almost to the corner of the arch, but instead of starting up the steep "ladder" section past the arch, traverse right under the corner and look for a bolt on the wall above the arch that protects the moves over the Arch. And up you go. Maybe. Then work right above the arch past two bolts then up on steep face climbing (follow the water streaks) to the belay anchor, where it joins the regular route. We found and replaced an old ¼” buttonhead bolt where the second bolt is above the arch, so it is possible the move to get above the arch has been done previously.

On the topo image found under "Crystal Wall Area", this is climb number 9.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

BruceB
Reno, NV
  5.10a PG13
BruceB   Reno, NV
  5.10a PG13
Fun but committing pitch. The one jug over the roof turns into a balancey mantle with thin feet. A fall at that point might be ugly (with rope stretch). Sep 18, 2017