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Routes in Crystal Wall Area

Arch Traverse S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Crystal Blue Persuasion S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Crystal Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Crystal Wall Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Family Friendly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Friction Affliction T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ice House Roof S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice House Roof Direct S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Independence Wall S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
More Affliction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Red Dawn S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FA 1980 Bob Branscomb, Kim Treadaway. Historical note: FA Bob Branscomb permitted the addition of the first bolt plus the belay station.
Page Views: 482 total, 27/month
Shared By: Ney Grant on Jun 24, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is an excellent, varied climb that starts up a smooth granite face past two bolts, a dike and into a large flake system. The climb is really 5.7 with one or two 5.8 moves up past the first bolt. A solid 5.7 leader may want to consider stick-clipping the first bolt in order to do the climb. It is worth the effort. The flake system eventually gives out (move right) and leaves you wandering up positive 5.6 face moves, somewhat runout, past a bolt to the two-bolt belay. From the anchor climb past one bolt, move up over a small roof (accepts cams) and then past another bolt for a runout but easy climb to the top anchor. Note that P1 and P2 are both 70 meters. If you have a shorter rope get a longer one. Sorry, it just kind of worked out that way. Otherwise with a shorter rope belay in the flake system and then again at the small roof, under which you can stuff cams. You can also skip the last pitch by traversing right to the rappel station from the first belay anchor, but the second pitch is fun too.

You can rap directly off the top chains with two 70M ropes straight down to a rap station with chains. From there it is another 70M rap to the ground. With a shorter rope you can rap way left (looking down) to a chained anchor at the top of the second pitch of Friction Affliction (above corner of large "Ice House Roof") and then down in two raps from there. Or just walk off to the north.

Location

Look for a white dike leaving the ground at angle up to the right, and where the dike is about 10 feet off the ground look for two bolts, one above and one below the dike. The large flake system is obvious straight above the second bolt.

Just to the left (where the dike hits the ground) is Independence Wall, an obvious line of bolts heading up the wall.


On the topo image found under "Crystal Wall Area", this is climb number 4.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Logan Swartz
Davis, CA
  5.8 PG13
Logan Swartz   Davis, CA
  5.8 PG13
FYI, pitch two was a rope stretcher with my 70 m. Jul 9, 2017
GizzardJones
Rancho Cordova,CA
  5.8 PG13
GizzardJones   Rancho Cordova,CA
  5.8 PG13
YES..instant Slick Rock Dome classic. 2 pitches I led P1. 2 70m rope rappells just like they suggested.
P1 is the goods and lots of fun. Jul 21, 2016