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Routes in 3 - Right Side Taper

4 Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Call Me Crazy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Call Me Gone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Canine's Little Helper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fifi Fingers S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Madcap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prone to Wander T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Slabmeister T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Variety Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: 2016 Tom Lane
Page Views: 34 total, 5/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on May 5, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Jay Harrison  
 
Location: This route lies on the chocolate-colored face, just right of Fifi Fingers. It begins just about in the middle of the chocolate rock, below a rounded right-facing corner that begins on a shelf 6' off the ground.

P1: Climb onto shelf and up rounded inside corner facing right to the point where the corner bends right to become a rounded overhang. Step right and up, then back up and left, using moon pockets and small horizontals, up steep rock and along the right edge of a final rounded bulge to reach a large sloping ledge. There is a fixed 2-bolt anchor on the face above this ledge that can be used for this route or its neighboring route/s.
It is about 60' to the anchors. There are 3 or 4 SS bolts along the way. Note that this rock is clean and brown because it gets a lot of water during the winter (it's an ice climb then), spring thaw, and any rainy time. These bolts will not last as long as usual in this environment. May 6, 2017