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Routes in 3 - Right Side Taper

4 Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Call Me Crazy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Call Me Gone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Canine's Little Helper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fifi Fingers S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Madcap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prone to Wander T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Slabmeister T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Variety Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: September 2015
Page Views: 42 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Oct 3, 2015
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Climb into chimney, then up to two parallel, vertical cracks rising slightly rightward. Take these to a point where moving left reaches a sinuous, left-rising diagonal crack. Take that to its end at a ledge, then step back out on the slab and climb (no protection) to the top, moving up and right to reach trustworthy trees.

Location

If you can find Fifi Fingers, this is about 65' to the left, just as the spruce thicket begins, at a dirty notch becoming a flaring chimney at head height. The chimney is short-lived; above, it separates into several crack lines.
To descend, rappel from one of the oak trees near the top-out, or walk 100' right to the fixed tree anchor above Fifi Fingers.

Protection

Medium nuts, Tri-cams, and a double set of cams from .3" to 3".

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