Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
GPS: 43.5378, -73.9677
FA: September 2015
Page Views: 699 total · 5/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Oct 3, 2015
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

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Description Suggest change

Climb into chimney, then up to two parallel, vertical cracks rising slightly rightward. Take these to a point where moving left reaches a sinuous, left-rising diagonal crack. Take that to its end at a ledge, then step back out on the slab and climb (no protection) to the top, moving up and right to reach trustworthy trees.
Note that the tempting right-hand option, continuing up the crack system slanting rightward above the chimney, runs into a very dead end, protection-wise.

Location Suggest change

If you can find Fifi Fingers, this is about 65' to the left, just as the spruce thicket begins, at a dirty notch becoming a flaring chimney at head height. There is a spruce tree in this notch. The chimney is short-lived; above, it separates into several crack lines.
To descend, rappel from one of the oak trees near the top-out, or walk 100' right to the fixed tree anchor above Fifi Fingers.

Protection Suggest change

Medium nuts, Tri-cams, and a double set of cams from .3" to 3".

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