Madcap
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 43.5378, -73.9677 |
| FA: | September 2015 |
| Page Views: | 699 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Harrison on Oct 3, 2015 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
Description
Climb into chimney, then up to two parallel, vertical cracks rising slightly rightward. Take these to a point where moving left reaches a sinuous, left-rising diagonal crack. Take that to its end at a ledge, then step back out on the slab and climb (no protection) to the top, moving up and right to reach trustworthy trees.
Note that the tempting right-hand option, continuing up the crack system slanting rightward above the chimney, runs into a very dead end, protection-wise.
Location
If you can find Fifi Fingers, this is about 65' to the left, just as the spruce thicket begins, at a dirty notch becoming a flaring chimney at head height. There is a spruce tree in this notch. The chimney is short-lived; above, it separates into several crack lines.
To descend, rappel from one of the oak trees near the top-out, or walk 100' right to the fixed tree anchor above Fifi Fingers.



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