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Routes in 3 - Right Side Taper

4 Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Call Me Crazy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Call Me Gone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Canine's Little Helper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fifi Fingers S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Madcap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prone to Wander T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Slabmeister T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Variety Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: October 2012 Jay Harrison and Tom Lane
Page Views: 44 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Dec 7, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

A couple very long 5.6ish runouts, but otherwise well-protected. If you can handle the crux section, the runouts should be trivial.
Climb the slab using an assortment of gear and bolts for pro to a small overlap at the bottom of the difficulty, a 20' tall section of steep friction with scant holds, protected by 3 bolts.
Passing this to a good stance, climb through the low overhang 8' left of a wide crack with an oak tree in it, then climb up unprotected easy slab, cross the wide crack and finish the last few feet right of it to reach a good belay ledge at the top of the cliff.

Location

At boulders leaning against the lowest point of the buttress that forms the right side of the amphitheater 150' right of the gigantic corner of the Main Face.

Protection

Tricams helpful in a couple spots, cams from #00 C3 to #2 C4. This is a long pitch, so don't skimp - but don't overload yourself either. Bring plenty of QDs.

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