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Routes in 3 - Right Side Taper

4 Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Call Me Crazy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Call Me Gone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Canine's Little Helper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fifi Fingers S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Madcap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prone to Wander T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Slabmeister T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Variety Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: October 2012 Jay Harrison and Tom Lane
Page Views: 50 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Dec 7, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description [Edit]

A couple very long 5.6ish runouts, but otherwise well-protected. If you can handle the crux section, the runouts should be trivial.
Climb the slab using an assortment of gear and bolts for pro to a small overlap at the bottom of the difficulty, a 20' tall section of steep friction with scant holds, protected by 3 bolts.
Passing this to a good stance, climb through the low overhang 8' left of a wide crack with an oak tree in it, then climb up unprotected easy slab, cross the wide crack and finish the last few feet right of it to reach a good belay ledge at the top of the cliff.

Location [Edit]

At boulders leaning against the lowest point of the buttress that forms the right side of the amphitheater 150' right of the gigantic corner of the Main Face.

Protection [Edit]

Tricams helpful in a couple spots, cams from #00 C3 to #2 C4. This is a long pitch, so don't skimp - but don't overload yourself either. Bring plenty of QDs.

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