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Routes in 3 - Right Side Taper

4 Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Call Me Crazy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Call Me Gone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Canine's Little Helper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fifi Fingers S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Madcap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prone to Wander T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Slabmeister T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Variety Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 23 total · 3/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on May 6, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

This is a good historical exercise in what climbing on-sight, ground-up was (is) like. It's dirty, it wanders, and yet it also casts about for interesting line. It is an early exploration of what was best about climbing here on Crane.
P1: Move up onto the parallel horizontal cracks and take them left to the arete. Climb the arete about 20' to another horizontal break and move right along it to a grassy ledge in a rocky alcove about 20' right of and 30' above the start of the route.
P2: Traverse scruffily to the right, to a filthy inside corner facing left. Reach up to a horizontal crack and take it out onto the exposed arete to the right. Climb with sparse gear up the arete all the way to the top of the buttress.
There are bolts along this arete now (part of Call Me Crazy ) that were not there on the FA. While the climbing is not difficult at that section of the arete, it certainly is engaging.

Location

Look for a short steep left-facing corner with an offwidth crack in it at the base of the route, well right of the routes to the left and well left of the routes to the right. #4 Crack is about 20' right of this route's start. The climbing begins on the ledge atop the ramp/offwidth, where two large horizontal cracks, which rise slightly leftward, run out to the arete. The bottom crack is within reach of vertically-challenged climbers at this point.

Protection

Standard Adk. Trad Rack. QD or two for the new fixed gear.

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