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Routes in 3 - Right Side Taper

4 Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Call Me Crazy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Call Me Gone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Canine's Little Helper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fifi Fingers S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Madcap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prone to Wander T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Slabmeister T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Variety Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mike Emelianoff mid 1990s
Page Views: 170 total · 3/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Dec 10, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

The crux lies about 20' before reaching the anchor chains, but it is marvelous face climbing the entire way.
Work up a small, left-rising, rounded corner to its top, then continue up the face, eventually heading right past a bulge to reach the anchor.

Location

This route lies on the chocolate-colored rock 400' right of the gigantic corner of the Main Face,where the ice route FiFi's Frozen Fingers runs during the winter. This area is about 200' from the right end of the cliff.
Fifi Fingers begins at a small, rounded corner, beginning at a diminutive left-rising ramp, NOT the more obvious right-facing rounded corner that begins on a shelf 6' above the ground, which is to the right and is the start of Canine's Little Helper.

Protection

Old, non-stainless steel bolts ca. 1995. These get buried under ice every year; the route's X rating derives from this fact. Maybe they will still hold a fall, maybe they won't. Clip (or not) at your own risk!
Furthermore, these are old-school distances apart. It is hard 5.8 getting to the first clip, and there is no other gear, so it's groundfall if you fail. And that first bolt is pretty high up there; your stick better be a long one if you plan to pre-clip.
TR setup is easy enough: walk around the cliff to the right, then along ledge back left to an oak tree at the top of the obvious notch above and left of the anchors. It will take all of a 60m rope to TR from here, and you may want a right-shifting directional for the climbing end. There's a horizontal crack partway down the upper slab that can be used for this. UPDATE: There is a two-bolt anchor on the wall just above the top-out ledge now, climber's right of this route's top-out (pretty much above the top-out for Canine's Little Helper ). You can access this anchor by rappel or by leading Canine's Little Helper, which is protected with ss bolts (with a couple trad pcs. augmenting them) placed in 2016.

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