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Routes in 3 - Right Side Taper

4 Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Call Me Crazy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Call Me Gone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Canine's Little Helper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fifi Fingers S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Madcap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prone to Wander T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Slabmeister T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Variety Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 155 ft
FA: 2011
Page Views: 53 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Dec 6, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

This route has every size of crack from tight-lipped Triple-Oh C3 to #5 C4.
Climb the initial block to reach the beginning of the crack, a homey hand-sized affair leaning leftward toward a steep dihedral.
The crux lies where the crack is widest, at the point where it runs through that dihedral, about 60' up. Continue up the corner until it merges with the buttress' slab, then traverse left along a tiny horizontal slit to reach a stance below an overhang. Head up to a break in that obstacle, and follow the wide crack that leads up left from there to a sloping ledge.

Location

Go around the gigantic corner of the main face, then walk another 150' to an alcove capped by an overhang 100'+ above. This route begins 15' above the lowest point of the rock rib forming the right side of this alcove, at a block below the start of a left-slanting crack that sweeps up to join a clear-cut, left-facing dihedral.

Protection

Big rack, cams from #000 C3 to #5 C4. Doubles of #1 - #3 C4 may be helpful. Lug it, baby!

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