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Routes in 3 - Right Side Taper

4 Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Call Me Crazy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Call Me Gone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Canine's Little Helper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fifi Fingers S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Madcap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prone to Wander T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Slabmeister T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Variety Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: May 4 2017 with Tom Lane
Page Views: 38 total · 2/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on May 5, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Climb up the left edge of the slab, using the left edge for holds. If the crack and face to the right are dry, it is trivial to reach the first horizontal crack. The friction moves on the face are slightly harder, but not nearly crucial.
At the first horizontal, weave up and back and forth, with mixed bolts and gear to a good stance on the left edge of a small overhang.
Traverse left and slightly upward to the outside edge of the buttress below its vertical section. Work up lovely orange plates on the corner to a large horizontal crack, and continue up the arete to the end of steepness. A final bolt lies at the sloping ledge that leads right to the anchor of Call Me Gone. One can also climb to the top, on dirty, sparsely-protected, easy terrain.

Location

Locate the large buttress on the left side of a rock alcove about 100' left of the chocolate-colored wall of Fifi Fingers. This route begins on the buttress' left edge. Currently, it begins immediately behind a pine tree. There is an oak tree to the left. This route begins left of Call Me Gone, which has a couple large starter blocks at its base.

Protection

Nothing bigger than a #1 C4 required, but bring plenty of nuts and micro-cams. There are four bolts en route.
While the top of the route does not have an anchor, it is easy to traverse 15' right of the uppermost bolt to the fixed anchor of Call Me Gone. It is possible (and easy fifth class) to continue to the top of the buttress, though that area is dirty and has little protection.

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