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Routes in 3 - Right Side Taper

4 Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Call Me Crazy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Call Me Gone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Canine's Little Helper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fifi Fingers S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Madcap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Prone to Wander T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Slabmeister T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Variety Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FFA April 2017 with Tom Lane
Page Views: 48 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on May 5, 2017
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

A historical route, first attempted in the mid-90s. I bailed (literally, into a tree) at the long crux runout. We TR'd the face after reclaiming my gear, beginning as with this route, but I believe we ended up traversing left to finish on what is now the crux of Call Me Crazy. It was not until I went renegade (top-down) and found a magic bucket that this more-direct line was realized. Well, that and some cowardly stainless steel assistance...
Make a tricky series of moves through the initial "bulging slab", then a few easier friction steps to the base of steeper stuff. Move up just left of the rounded outside right edge of the buttress, get creative through the overhanging bulge, then work up marvelous crimpy plates to easing terrain at horizontal breaks, clipping a two-bolt anchor at the top of difficult ground. Optionally, continue up easy, dirty slab to the top of the buttress.

Location

Locate the buttress on the left alcove that is about 100' left of the chocolate-colored face of Fifi Fingers. This route begins on a bulging slab directly below the right side of this buttress. The buttress fades into a steep face on the right, so it isn't easy to delineate the right side.
There are several large (3'+ long) flat rocks lying at the base of the start of this route, and a pine tree stands against the left side of the slab less than 10' to the left.

Protection

C4s or equivalent from .3 to 3, with double .5s, and quickdraws. Nuts and TriCams are useful as well.
There are 4 bolts plus a two-bolt anchor.

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JSW
JSW  
TRed this today and it is worth the walk. unfortunately that is saying something considering the walk Jun 25, 2017