Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Joran Viers, Mark Hyde, and Rob Fielder (late 1980's)
Page Views: 549 total · 10/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Feb 16, 2017 · Updates
Admins: Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz

You & This Route


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Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Twenty feet left of Fistfighter a giant flake leans against the cliff face. Balance straight up the slab on thin holds to gain the first bolt (15-20 foot groundfall potential here). Alternatively, one can reach the first bolt by climbing the easier and more secure corner crack forming the left edge of the pillar. From the first bolt, trend rightward up the slab to a tricky mantle at the second bolt, then cruise up progressively easier terrain to a big ledge at the top of the pillar. Immediately off this ledge, a short section of overhanging crack provides the crux, followed by 20’ of enjoyable 5.8 hand slamming. Belay and rappel from a tree anchor that also provides a convenient TR anchor for Fistfighter.

Note: Most modern-day climbers start by climbing the easy corner crack on the very left side of the pillar to gain the first bolt, before breaking out right onto the slab.In fact, this is how the route is described in the current guidebook to the Wichitas. However, recent information from the previously unknown first ascent party has revealed, in addition to a much more creative name than "The Slab Route", this route originally climbed straight up the slab to the first bolt. The FA party called these moves 5.9. If done this way, Temple of the Wind certainly qualifies for an R rating.

Protection

2 bolts plus single set of cams from 1.5" to #4 Camalot

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