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Routes in Desperate Dome (Desperate Reality Cliff)

Black Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corner Man T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Desperate Reality T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
El Corador T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fight Club T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fistfighter T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kid Gloves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Temple of the Wind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warm Up, The S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Joran Viers, Mark Hyde, and Rob Fielder (late 1980's)
Page Views: 121 total · 7/month
Shared By: Chris Banks on Feb 16, 2017 with updates from Mark Hyde
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Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Twenty feet left of Fistfighter a giant flake leans against the cliff face. Balance straight up the slab on thin holds to gain the first bolt (15-20 foot groundfall potential here). Alternatively, one can reach the first bolt by climbing the easier and more secure corner crack forming the left edge of the pillar. From the first bolt, trend rightward up the slab to a tricky mantle at the second bolt, then cruise up progressively easier terrain to a big ledge at the top of the pillar. Immediately off this ledge, a short section of overhanging crack provides the crux, followed by 20’ of enjoyable 5.8 hand slamming. Belay and rappel from a tree anchor that also provides a convenient TR anchor for Fistfighter.

Note: Most modern-day climbers start by climbing the easy corner crack on the very left side of the pillar to gain the first bolt, before breaking out right onto the slab.In fact, this is how the route is described in the current guidebook to the Wichitas. However, recent information from the previously unknown first ascent party has revealed, in addition to a much more creative name than "The Slab Route", this route originally climbed straight up the slab to the first bolt. The FA party called these moves 5.9. If done this way, Temple of the Wind certainly qualifies for an R rating.

Protection [Suggest Change]

2 bolts plus single set of cams from 1.5" to #4 Camalot

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Chris Banks
Tucson, AZ
 
Chris Banks   Tucson, AZ
 
A big thank you to Mark Hyde for the recent info he provided about the first ascent of what had previously been called "The Slab Route". The team effort it took to establish Temple of the Wind was quite an impressive ordeal! I'm glad that these first ascensionists are finally able to get at least some form of credit for their efforts. Hopefully the next printed guide to the Wichitas will include this info. Jun 3, 2017

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