Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Chris Banks and Kevin Dubuc, 2010
Page Views: 434 total · 9/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Feb 16, 2017
Admins: Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz

You & This Route


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Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Every great Fistfighter needs a good Corner Man. Ten feet right of the start to Black Crack, this right-facing corner offers excellent and varied climbing on rock that is much higher quality than first appearance suggests. Crank steep and balancey moves on good holds (past two bolts if a pending bolting permit is approved), then lieback over a small roof (crux) into the upper dihedral. Stem and finger jam your way to its top and escape left. Gear belay as for Black Crack

Location

Located halfway up the low-angle slab at the right side of the cliff, ten feet right of Black Crack.

Descent: A short downclimb off the southwest corner of the rock gets you to the ground. Hike downhill, staying close to the cliff, and then carefully scramble down the aforementioned low-angle slab to the base of the route.

Protection

Standard rack: nuts and cams to 3 inches

As of February 2017, there are no bolts in place on this route. A permit application to place two bolts at the start has been approved by the Advisory Bolting Committee (ABC) of the Wichita Mountains Climbers Coalition and is awaiting final determination by refuge management.

The route was led by the first ascentionist at 5.10 R/X. Without bolts, the first gear is 25' up in the underside of the small roof. A fall from this height onto the granite slab would be catastrophic. Hopefully the application for a bolting permit will gain official approval so that the route can be made safe for all to enjoy. Until then, heads up!

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