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Routes in Desperate Dome (Desperate Reality Cliff)

Black Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corner Man T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Desperate Reality T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
El Corador T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fight Club T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fistfighter T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kid Gloves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Temple of the Wind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warm Up, The S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Chris Banks and Kevin Dubuc, 2010
Page Views: 85 total, 9/month
Shared By: C Banks on Feb 16, 2017
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This area is designated as Charon Details
Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Every great Fistfighter needs a good Corner Man. Ten feet right of the start to Black Crack, this right-facing corner offers excellent and varied climbing on rock that is much higher quality than first appearance suggests. Crank steep and balancey moves on good holds (past two bolts if a pending bolting permit is approved), then lieback over a small roof (crux) into the upper dihedral. Stem and finger jam your way to its top and escape left. Gear belay as for Black Crack

Location

Located halfway up the low-angle slab at the right side of the cliff, ten feet right of Black Crack.

Descent: A short downclimb off the southwest corner of the rock gets you to the ground. Hike downhill, staying close to the cliff, and then carefully scramble down the aforementioned low-angle slab to the base of the route.

Protection

Standard rack: nuts and cams to 3 inches

As of February 2017, there are no bolts in place on this route. A permit application to place two bolts at the start has been approved by the Advisory Bolting Committee (ABC) of the Wichita Mountains Climbers Coalition and is awaiting final determination by refuge management.

The route was led by the first ascentionist at 5.10 R/X. Without bolts, the first gear is 25' up in the underside of the small roof. A fall from this height onto the granite slab would be catastrophic. Hopefully the application for a bolting permit will gain official approval so that the route can be made safe for all to enjoy. Until then, heads up!

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