This area is designated as Charon
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
Access is always an issue here.
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Every great Fistfighter needs a good Corner Man. Ten feet right of the start to Black Crack, this right-facing corner offers excellent and varied climbing on rock that is much higher quality than first appearance suggests. Crank steep and balancey moves on good holds (past two bolts if a pending bolting permit is approved), then lieback over a small roof (crux) into the upper dihedral. Stem and finger jam your way to its top and escape left. Gear belay as for Black Crack
Located halfway up the low-angle slab at the right side of the cliff, ten feet right of Black Crack.
Descent: A short downclimb off the southwest corner of the rock gets you to the ground. Hike downhill, staying close to the cliff, and then carefully scramble down the aforementioned low-angle slab to the base of the route.
Standard rack: nuts and cams to 3 inches
As of February 2017, there are no bolts in place on this route. A permit application to place two bolts at the start has been approved by the Advisory Bolting Committee (ABC) of the Wichita Mountains Climbers Coalition and is awaiting final determination by refuge management.
The route was led by the first ascentionist at 5.10 R/X. Without bolts, the first gear is 25' up in the underside of the small roof. A fall from this height onto the granite slab would be catastrophic. Hopefully the application for a bolting permit will gain official approval so that the route can be made safe for all to enjoy. Until then, heads up!