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Routes in Desperate Dome (Desperate Reality Cliff)
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Black Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Corner Man T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Desperate Reality T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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El Corador T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fight Club T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fistfighter T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Kid Gloves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Temple of the Wind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Warm Up, The S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 45 ft |
| FA: | FFA: Chris Banks and Steven Charles, 2010 |
| Page Views: | 119 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Banks on Feb 16, 2017 |
| Admins: | Drew Nevius |
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Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon
Details
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here.
Details
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Description
The first rule of Fight Club is: you do not talk about Fight Club. The second rule of Fight Club is: climb this route! About 60' right of The Warm Up is a large C-shaped pod about 25' off the ground. Jam a short crack followed by a couple of difficult face moves to reach the base of the pod. Clip the lone bolt, pull up into the pod (can be a tight squeeze!), and then fight your way out its top (crux).
The first free ascent was done prior to the replacement of an old, hangerless ¼” buttonhead to the left of the pod. After getting up into the pod and discovering that he had no gear, Chris hollered to Steven to toss up the #5 Wild Country Friend. Steven made the throw on the first try (a distance of about thirty feet!) and Chris shoved the big cam up into a flaky crack at the top of the pod before finishing the route.
The first free ascent was done prior to the replacement of an old, hangerless ¼” buttonhead to the left of the pod. After getting up into the pod and discovering that he had no gear, Chris hollered to Steven to toss up the #5 Wild Country Friend. Steven made the throw on the first try (a distance of about thirty feet!) and Chris shoved the big cam up into a flaky crack at the top of the pod before finishing the route.
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