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Routes in Desperate Dome (Desperate Reality Cliff)

Black Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corner Man T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Desperate Reality T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
El Corador T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fight Club T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fistfighter T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kid Gloves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Temple of the Wind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warm Up, The S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: FFA: Chris Banks and Steven Charles, 2010
Page Views: 77 total, 8/month
Shared By: C Banks on Feb 16, 2017
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This area is designated as Charon Details
Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

The first rule of Fight Club is: you do not talk about Fight Club. The second rule of Fight Club is: climb this route! About 60' right of The Warm Up is a large C-shaped pod about 25' off the ground. Jam a short crack followed by a couple of difficult face moves to reach the base of the pod. Clip the lone bolt, pull up into the pod (can be a tight squeeze!), and then fight your way out its top (crux).

The first free ascent was done prior to the replacement of an old, hangerless ¼” buttonhead to the left of the pod. After getting up into the pod and discovering that he had no gear, Chris hollered to Steven to toss up the #5 Wild Country Friend. Steven made the throw on the first try (a distance of about thirty feet!) and Chris shoved the big cam up into a flaky crack at the top of the pod before finishing the route.

Protection

1 bolt plus single rack up to 2". 2-bolt anchor with rap rings. Small wires such as DMM peenuts can be useful in the incipient crack immediately above the pod.

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