Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Eric Forney and Mike Hankins, 2006
Page Views: 397 total · 3/month
Shared By: Chris Banks on Jan 11, 2009
Admins: Drew Nevius

You & This Route


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Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Begin just a few feet left of Corner Man and carefully traverse left along a horizontal break to gain the base of a crack splitting the obvious black water streak. You’ll encounter plenty of sustained wide hands to fist jamming on this one, although the crux is a short section at 30’ where the crack pinches down for a few moves. Save a 4.5”-5” piece to throw in the short section of off-width that immediately follows the crux. The last 30' is sustained 5.9 wide-hands goodness. Quality!

Location

This route begins a short ways up a low-angle slab that begins about 25' right of Fight Club.

Descent: A short downclimb off the southwest corner of the rock gets you to the ground. Hike downhill, staying close to the cliff, and then carefully scramble down the aforementioned low-angle slab to the base of the route.

Protection

Cams from 3/4" to 5". Double or triple set of #2-#4 Camalots. Gear anchor.

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Chris Banks
Tucson, AZ
  5.10b
Chris Banks   Tucson, AZ
  5.10b
Revised rack for Black Crack:

You'll need two cams 4" or larger to protect the first twenty feet of the crack. A #4 C4 Camalot works well as the second big piece, but you should carry a bigger piece, like an old-style #4.5 Camalot or a #5 Wild Country Friend to protect the initial offwidth section. I haven't tried placing a #5 C4 here but I think it might be a tight fit, especially if you're wanting to slide the cam up a few feet as you climb. Hope this helps. Dec 3, 2009