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Routes in Desperate Dome (Desperate Reality Cliff)

Black Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corner Man T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Desperate Reality T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
El Corador T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fight Club T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fistfighter T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kid Gloves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Temple of the Wind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warm Up, The S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Eric Forney and Mike Hankins, 2006
Page Views: 329 total, 3/month
Shared By: C Banks on Jan 11, 2009
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This area is designated as Charon Details
Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Begin just a few feet left of Corner Man and carefully traverse left along a horizontal break to gain the base of a crack splitting the obvious black water streak. You’ll encounter plenty of sustained wide hands to fist jamming on this one, although the crux is a short section at 30’ where the crack pinches down for a few moves. Save a 4.5”-5” piece to throw in the short section of off-width that immediately follows the crux. The last 30' is sustained 5.9 wide-hands goodness. Quality!

Location

This route begins a short ways up a low-angle slab that begins about 25' right of Fight Club.

Descent: A short downclimb off the southwest corner of the rock gets you to the ground. Hike downhill, staying close to the cliff, and then carefully scramble down the aforementioned low-angle slab to the base of the route.

Protection

Cams from 3/4" to 5". Double or triple set of #2-#4 Camalots. Gear anchor.

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C Banks
Tucson, AZ
 
C Banks   Tucson, AZ
 
Revised rack for Black Crack:

You'll need two cams 4" or larger to protect the first twenty feet of the crack. A #4 C4 Camalot works well as the second big piece, but you should carry a bigger piece, like an old-style #4.5 Camalot or a #5 Wild Country Friend to protect the initial offwidth section. I haven't tried placing a #5 C4 here but I think it might be a tight fit, especially if you're wanting to slide the cam up a few feet as you climb. Hope this helps. Dec 3, 2009