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Oklahoma
> Wichita Wildlif…
> Charon's Gardens
> Desperate Dome (Desperate Reality Cliff)
Black Crack
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Desperate Dome (Desperate Reality Cliff)
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Black Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Corner Man T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Desperate Reality T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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El Corador T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fight Club T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fistfighter T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Kid Gloves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Temple of the Wind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Warm Up, The S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 70 ft |
| FA: | Eric Forney and Mike Hankins, 2006 |
| Page Views: | 382 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Banks on Jan 11, 2009 |
| Admins: |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon
Details
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here.
Details
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Description
Begin just a few feet left of Corner Man and carefully traverse left along a horizontal break to gain the base of a crack splitting the obvious black water streak. You’ll encounter plenty of sustained wide hands to fist jamming on this one, although the crux is a short section at 30’ where the crack pinches down for a few moves. Save a 4.5”-5” piece to throw in the short section of off-width that immediately follows the crux. The last 30' is sustained 5.9 wide-hands goodness. Quality!
Location
This route begins a short ways up a low-angle slab that begins about 25' right of Fight Club.
Descent: A short downclimb off the southwest corner of the rock gets you to the ground. Hike downhill, staying close to the cliff, and then carefully scramble down the aforementioned low-angle slab to the base of the route.
Descent: A short downclimb off the southwest corner of the rock gets you to the ground. Hike downhill, staying close to the cliff, and then carefully scramble down the aforementioned low-angle slab to the base of the route.
Photos
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Tucson, AZ
You'll need two cams 4" or larger to protect the first twenty feet of the crack. A #4 C4 Camalot works well as the second big piece, but you should carry a bigger piece, like an old-style #4.5 Camalot or a #5 Wild Country Friend to protect the initial offwidth section. I haven't tried placing a #5 C4 here but I think it might be a tight fit, especially if you're wanting to slide the cam up a few feet as you climb. Hope this helps. Dec 3, 2009