Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 318 total · 8/month
Shared By: Chris Banks on Feb 16, 2017
Admins: Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz

You & This Route


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Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Short but sweet. About 50' past the start of Desperate Reality, where the corridor begins to widen, climb a right-angling finger crack on the left wall to a sloping ledge capped by a low roof. Shuffle or crawl about ten feet right on the ledge to a stunning splitter that narrows from hands to thin hands to fingers (crux). Scramble up and left to a large belay tree. Descend by looping your rope over the tree and rappelling.

Note:
This route has almost certainly seen prior ascents. I've merely attached a name to the route for the sake of clarification. The first time I climbed it, I discovered that I could stem upward, with hands and feet on opposite walls, in order to place good pro in the initial finger crack. The wide stem reminded me of the famous 100' talll stem box on El Matador at Devil's Tower (although certainly it's much less pumpy on the calves!). The pun contained in the route name occurred to me almost immediately and I liked it so the name stuck. Chris

Location

At the end of the granite corridor, 50' past the start of Desperate Reality

Protection

Standard rack to 2". Belay at tree. Bring a long sling or cordalette for the anchor. The first half of the route can be pretty tricky to protect.

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