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Routes in The Fin

Dark Horse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Dorsal Fin, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fin Arete, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Fins and Needles T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fish For Brains S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gills, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hand Drills Suck! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hook, Line and Sinker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lateral Fin, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Lyin & Cryin T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Other Intentions T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pabst Schmear, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ventral Fin, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2-3
Wasatch Harlem T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wave of Mutilation, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Tyler Phillips, Pat & Kristen Bardsley 2014
Page Views: 732 total, 48/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Sep 13, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This newish addition to the Fin is a great intro to Fin climbing. The first 3 pitches can be escaped from and rappelled to the base of harder south facing Fin routes, perhaps providing a warm up for those of us who need it.

P1- From the start of the scramble of the Fin there is a diorite face to the left (north). A pin and a few bolts will lead up to a dihedral. Ramble up this to a large shelf with a 2 bolt belay above. 9+/10a

P2- Slab up the wonderful scoop clipping bolts to a featured chimney, step right at the top to a 2 bolt belay and GREAT belay stance. 5.9

P3- Pad up perfect granite clipping a lone bolt to the anchor. 5.5 (from this anchor shuffle out right (up canyon) to a stance and a two bolt belay. You can run this together, but its a bit of route finding that may elude you on your first round.

P4- Slab up the impeccable Fin rock making a few committing moves and step left to the anchor and a nice shelf. 5.10b (it is possible to escape to the Fin Arete at bolt 2)

Alt- Climb up from belay and clip bolt out right and regain the Fin Arete

P5- Slab up passing a pin in the dihedral. Near the top you'll encounter featured rock and a bolt or two. Ramble up the low angle dihedral aiming for a 2 bolt belay and another great stance

P6- Climb up a thin crack to beautiful rock and wonderful movement. This pitch spits you out on the namesake of the feature of the entire formation. Don't forget to find a small TCU up on the arete, your second will thank you.

Descent: Standard Fin gully descent if topping out. It is possible to rap back to the base using two ropes from the 4th pitch.


From where the standard pack ditching/ harness up flat spot is. Look up and spot a speckled diortie face. The first pitch starts here. Its about a 30 ft. scramble to the base.

The entire route was equipped ground up.


Rack to #3 camalot. 12 QD's, shoulder slings
FPs: The second pin on pitch one (on a right-leaning low-angle lieback feature) is gone. The first on the pitch is still there (it is low and at climber's right). The second pin on pitch five is missing ("Above here a pin is found found under an overlap," Smith, Burr, Phillips). The first ring-piton is still there, up at head-height right in a small seam. NOTE: this 5th pitch is not indicated with a route line in their guide on page 175 (c 2016), but ends in a two bolt anchor in a dyke below a small roof and held great climbing (see pg 175, above and just left of the black "natural anchor" indicator). The pins are confirmed - they came yesterday (Aug 2017) under finger weight. Perfect 0.3 - 04 cam placements now anyway. Aug 6, 2017
Salt Lake City, UT
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
I thought this was a good route overall and a nice addition to the Fin. It's got fun and interesting climbing, mostly good rock, and gets you to the top of the Fin. Come on...What more could you really ask for?

Nice work TP and company! Oct 10, 2016
Bwaahahahah! Nailed it.

For the record James, I've always liked your quirky rappel anchors. Sep 15, 2016
user id
Ogden, Utah
user id   Ogden, Utah
JG wrote:Some nice climbing but not in the same league as other Fin route classics. The rappel route needs retrofitting and some half measured changes and additions seem perplexing.
When read between the lines: "this had one nice move, but basically sucked. This will never be the Dorsal Fin, which I can't even climb, and the rappels need some half-assed, sloppy glue-ins littered with antique trinkets." Sep 15, 2016
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
You two punters need to stop getting fat and get back to climbing choss.
James, what you can possibly have against the raps? The old bolts are fine and the new anchor (which is protected, easy to spot and convenient to pull from) eliminates the semi-sketchy downclimb. Getting off with a 70m is a breeze... As the Lord Of Rappelling I thought you'd be pleased :)
The route isn't the Fin Arete or the Dorsal but it's long, sustained, super fun, and much more accessible than the old school classics. I'm done climbing 10+ slabs 15' above bolts and was psyched to walk off a Fin route with clean underwear (for once). Two of the pitches are solid 3 stars and two are solid 2 stars, better than I can say about a shitload of new stuff I've climbed lately. Sep 15, 2016
Stevie Nacho   Utah
One vote for good route. I can't wait to climb it when I'm not fat! The last pitch is gorgeous . Being put up on lead, it may provoke a thought or two while climbing . It reminds me of older routes on Lcc. Pretty rad Tyler drilled this rig on the sharpe end. Go climb this thing and throw a cheers to the fa party. At least two stars

Tda Sep 14, 2016
Hi James. Glad you liked the route. The route was never meant to be rappelled from the top, Although it is quite easy to (with two ropes) from the top of the 4th. Not sure what 'half measured changes' you're referring to, but let me know if you need further clarification on the route write up or if it's misleading somehow. I'd be happy to edit it.

Cheers. Sep 14, 2016
Some nice climbing but not in the same league as other Fin route classics. The rappel route needs retrofitting and some half measured changes and additions seem perplexing. Sep 14, 2016
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
. P1 is more on the 10a side of things, the first few moves are insecure and STOUT! The water trough above the steep start is a very unique feature.
. P2 is excellent slabbing with sporty moves to reach the chickenheads. The anchor is right of a wide crack and left of a much wider cleft. Almost 3 stars.
. The top of P3 is marked by a large boulder precariously perched on a ledge. The downward shuffle starts behind the boulder.
. Of note for P4, the anchor is directly left of the last bolt (as in level with it about 8' to the left, not easy to spot). The bolt up the steeper slabs is for the P5 variation, keep your eyes peeled for the anchor or you'll end up linking pitches and not finishing the regular route. Welcome to drilling on lead...
If your slab game is weak you can skip P4 and enjoy the goodness above by continuing up the easy but brushy slab above the big boulder on top of P3 to a cluster of trees, the top of P4 is one hard move away (don't fall in the tree).
. P5 is a wonderful romp up all kinds of cool features (almost 3 stars too) . P6 can hold its own with the other classic pitches on the Fin IMO. I was cackling like a maniac once I popped on the upper arete after climbing great patina. Legit 3 stars.

Overall I'd say 2.5 stars but I like to antagonize Tyler so I'll round down to 2.

3 single rope raps on the West face with a 70m and a bit of walking will get you back to the packs. Sep 13, 2016