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Upper Fin Rock Climbing
Routes in Upper Fin
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Dark Horse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Dorsal Fin, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fin Arete, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Finagle Variation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Fins and Needles T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gills, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Hook, Line and Sinker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lateral Fin, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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License To Poach T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Ventral Fin, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2-3 |
| Elevation: | 6,363 ft | 1,939 m |
| GPS: |
40.57399, -111.76119 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 8,158 total · 167/month | |
| Shared By: | Tyler Phillips on Nov 23, 2020 | |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Upper Fin
With out a doubt some of the best rock and slab routes in Little Cottonwood can be found here. The bold and ground breaking 1965 ascent of the Dorsal Fin from George Lowe is found on the upper flanks as well as the ultra classic Fin Arete put up by the Smoot bros. You can't really go wrong here. The climbing is bold and beautiful on almost every route up here.
Getting There
Approach as for Lizard Head, but instead of going up to Lizard Head take a low trail that heads back West, hopping over a few boulders along the way. Once you clear the scrub oak you will come to a rock slide path and get your first good view of the Lower East Fin. The Church Vault road should now be visible to your left. Make your way across the slide path walking West. The trail will drop you down into a forest with a slab rising out of the bottom. This is where Hand Drills Suck! and Other Intentions start. Wasatch Harlem and Lyin and Cryin can be found about 100 years uphill from here.
Keep trashing up the gully, ( Educated Idiot is found in the lower flanks). Once the gully becomes more pronounced you will see a slab spilling to the bottom right hand side with a black streak slab with a bolt (this is the first bolt on License To Poach). Take a right here and go up a gully heading back east (And also passing the start or Hook, Line and Sinker). You will come to a choose your own adventure scrambling that all leads up to the upper Fin I personally go a bit further south than you'd think and scramble up some low angle dihedrals. Choose wisely.
Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Fin
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