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The Fin Arete
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 3.8 from 95
votes
Routes in Upper Fin
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Dark Horse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Dorsal Fin, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fin Arete, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Fins and Needles T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gills, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Hook, Line and Sinker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lateral Fin, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Pay the Kitty T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ventral Fin, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2-3 |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Smoot & Smoot '78 |
| Page Views: | 12,950 total · 59/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Gram on Mar 18, 2005 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
The Fin Arete is a beautiful slab climb, with many good-sized runouts. At the base of The Fin, The Fin Arete starts on the left side. Scramble up a broken ramp to find a suitable belay stance.
P1 (5.10b) Climb through six bolts of rather runout friction climbing. A small leftward traverse is found at the fourth bolt, and is also the crux of the climb. Belay at a fixed anchor, bolts.
P2 (5.9) There are two ways to go on this pitch. We did the Dark Horse variation, so I can't vouch for the original route. Dark Horse is awesome—highly recommended. To do it, climb slightly right from the belay to a bolt. Another bolt is usable to the left a ways, and then do a big runout up through a small roof. One more bolt leads to an intermediate anchor. Continue up the exciting prow (one bolt, runout) to another bolt anchor in a dish.
Original route: Climb straight up from the anchor to a hard-to-see bolt a bit below the left side of the roof. Get over the left side of the roof into a leftward-trending flared crack. Follow this crack until it ends, and then follow another, rightward-trending flared crack that starts up and right a bit from the end of the previous crack. After the crack ends, spy a rusty bolt up and to the right a bit (1/4" with Leeper hanger). Climb past the bolt and up to an excellent stance with a single-bolt plus chickenhead belay.
P3 (5.7) Continue up the prow: thin and runout. Pass one bolt, then the climbing eases to 5.5 for a long run up to the anchors (this pitch is almost 200 feet). The anchors are to the left of the arete, and a bit hidden.
P1 (5.10b) Climb through six bolts of rather runout friction climbing. A small leftward traverse is found at the fourth bolt, and is also the crux of the climb. Belay at a fixed anchor, bolts.
P2 (5.9) There are two ways to go on this pitch. We did the Dark Horse variation, so I can't vouch for the original route. Dark Horse is awesome—highly recommended. To do it, climb slightly right from the belay to a bolt. Another bolt is usable to the left a ways, and then do a big runout up through a small roof. One more bolt leads to an intermediate anchor. Continue up the exciting prow (one bolt, runout) to another bolt anchor in a dish.
Original route: Climb straight up from the anchor to a hard-to-see bolt a bit below the left side of the roof. Get over the left side of the roof into a leftward-trending flared crack. Follow this crack until it ends, and then follow another, rightward-trending flared crack that starts up and right a bit from the end of the previous crack. After the crack ends, spy a rusty bolt up and to the right a bit (1/4" with Leeper hanger). Climb past the bolt and up to an excellent stance with a single-bolt plus chickenhead belay.
P3 (5.7) Continue up the prow: thin and runout. Pass one bolt, then the climbing eases to 5.5 for a long run up to the anchors (this pitch is almost 200 feet). The anchors are to the left of the arete, and a bit hidden.
Protection
Slings for bolts, small nuts, and small though medium cams, but this climb is mostly widely-spaced bolt-protected slab climbing.
Descent
We had a 70m rope, but the rap should be possible with a 60m. Rap down to the left of The Fin to a sloping ledge system. Easily downclimb the ledge to another dropoff. There are some hidden anchors next to a tree. Rap one more time to the main gully between The Fin and Church Buttress. It is a hike out from here.
The rap puts you at the base of the Intensive Care Slab and Gargoyle Wall.
The rap puts you at the base of the Intensive Care Slab and Gargoyle Wall.
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