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Finagle Variation
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 1.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Upper Fin
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Dark Horse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Dorsal Fin, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fin Arete, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Finagle Variation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Fins and Needles T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gills, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Hook, Line and Sinker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lateral Fin, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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License To Poach T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Ventral Fin, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2-3 |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.57399, -111.76119 |
| FA: | Les Ellison, Bret Ruckman 1985 |
| Page Views: | 260 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Rosemary Bloom on Apr 17, 2023 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
The Granite guide has the pitches mixed up so here is some clarification.
P1. Start at the low-angle slab to a crack plug gear and dance your way to the first bolt (15' off the ground) smear up 2 more bolts to a gear belay in a solid flake. This is a fun ( short) featured pitch an excellent ground up ascent with a thoughtful crux, the rock is still the classic "Fin" quality on this pitch. 5.11a
Pitch one has shiny new bolts on it! another "Fin" adventure has been preserved, Wooo!
P2. The Crux, Here is were the route takes some dings in star ratings, the rock quality really goes down, steep traversing on jugs gets you settled into the flake. lyback the featured crack to, two pins make a nest of gear for reassurance then fire off the boulder problem until you reach the first bolt on the second pitch of the "Dorsal Fin". I climbed into the corner then built a belay before the dike traverse. Such an improbable line with a nice adventure feel to it. Only the flake is Choss, the rock above and below are stellar!
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