Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: with aid: Stuart Ruckman and Gordon Douglas 1986 FFA: Chris Thomas, Rick Vance, and Jess Taverna 10/2007
Page Views: 1,243 total · 9/month
Shared By: christ on Oct 30, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Overhanging finger and hand crack in a narrowing dihedral. There are no individual hard moves, but it's very steep and sustained the whole way. This is a great route with good rock, but it needs to be climbed a few more times to clean up a little. Pumpy! Note: FFA was done with pre-placed gear - this route still awaits a pure, ground up ascent while placing the gear.

Location

From the Dorsal Fin/Dark Horse area, traverse around the Fin to the east. Climb a long scrambly pitch up and right, starting with a chicken head crack, and finishing with some low angle slab climbing on a ramp. Belay at the end of this ramp, and the crack will be obvious.

Protection

Set of TCUs, double set of cams from a .3 C4 to a #2 C4. Lower/rap from a 2 bolt anchor at the top of the dihedral.

Photos

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John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
Christ, if you can walk on water, climbing 5.12 shouldn't be a big deal... move on to some really cool things please, you're the son of god for Christ's sake. Oct 30, 2007