Type: Trad, Aid, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Smoot Bros. 1982
Page Views: 1,547 total · 13/month
Shared By: Stevie Nacho on Jun 28, 2009 with updates from bsmoot
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


The cruxes to this route are following the second pitch and the lasso at the beginning of the fourth. Each pitch is fairly short, yet have great features and moves. The nailing is straightforward and cams appear every couple of placements. The third pitch gets thin, with multiple tied off blades. Every belay has new (2009) bolts along with every lead bolt.


This route is located on the right side of the fin high above Altered States Gully. Approach as for the Dorsal Fin, then do a 5.6 pitch which angles up then right for a full rope length. Some simi-climbing is needed to reach the chain anchor for The Gills. The first pitch starts to the left (west) of the chain anchor. This is the short bulge crack (8') that traverses left (west) to a bush.


-One set of hand sized cams (Black diamond .75-3)

-Two sets of t.c.u.'s (Metolius purple, blue, yellow)

-One orange metolius cam, One red metolius cam.

-One set of HB Brass off-sets.

-Some medium stoppers.

-An assortment of blades, (we used about ten)

-An assortment of lost arrows (we used about six)

-A few beaks or Rurps (we used two beaks)

-Bunches of slings

-A copy of the topo


Stevie Nacho
  5.10 A2-3
Stevie Nacho   Utah
  5.10 A2-3
The bolts are all new as of 2009, but there are a few old bolts in which we couldn't remove. Please take the necessary tools to "yank" these and patch the old holes.

Kudos to the Smoot brothers for the lasso on the fourth pitch. I'm sure it will remain one of my most mememorable moments in that canyon. It makes me want to go climb Nob Job.

-TDA Jun 28, 2009
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10 A2-3
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10 A2-3
A wonderful route to train for a big aid climb in Yosemite. The crux is the second person cleaning the traverse over the big roof. Also - the old guide never mentioned the lasso of the nob - a solution you MUST recognize to succeed on the route. Great route. Jun 28, 2010
Stevie Nacho
  5.10 A2-3
Stevie Nacho   Utah
  5.10 A2-3
Still one of my favorite routes in this canyon. Can't wait to come back. Nov 25, 2012