Type: Trad, Aid, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Smoot Bros. 1982
Page Views: 1,618 total · 13/month
Shared By: Stevie Nacho on Jun 28, 2009 with improvements by bsmoot
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The cruxes to this route are following the second pitch and the lasso at the beginning of the fourth. Each pitch is fairly short, yet have great features and moves. The nailing is straightforward and cams appear every couple of placements. The third pitch gets thin, with multiple tied off blades. Every belay has new (2009) bolts along with every lead bolt.

Location

This route is located on the right side of the fin high above Altered States Gully. Approach as for the Dorsal Fin, then do a 5.6 pitch which angles up then right for a full rope length. Some simi-climbing is needed to reach the chain anchor for The Gills. The first pitch starts to the left (west) of the chain anchor. This is the short bulge crack (8') that traverses left (west) to a bush.

Protection

-One set of hand sized cams (Black diamond .75-3)

-Two sets of t.c.u.'s (Metolius purple, blue, yellow)

-One orange metolius cam, One red metolius cam.

-One set of HB Brass off-sets.

-Some medium stoppers.

-An assortment of blades, (we used about ten)

-An assortment of lost arrows (we used about six)

-A few beaks or Rurps (we used two beaks)

-Bunches of slings

-A copy of the topo

Photos