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Routes in The Fin

Dark Horse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Dorsal Fin, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fin Arete, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Fins and Needles T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fish For Brains S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gills, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hand Drills Suck! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hook, Line and Sinker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lateral Fin, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Lyin & Cryin T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Other Intentions T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pabst Schmear, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ventral Fin, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2-3
Wasatch Harlem T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wave of Mutilation, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Mark Ward, Kim Miller: 1979
Page Views: 3,199 total, 26/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 13, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Approach

From the 4th bolt on The Fin Arete.

Route Description

Start on The Fin Arete.
Pitch 1: Branch right, toward the roof. I used a short runner on the bolt protecting the (physical crux) roof despite recieving rope drag. It was OK because the belay is right after you clear the lip.
Pitch 2: Climb straight up one of the most exposed hard slabs you may ever climb. Clip the lead rope through the belay anchor to prevent an FF2 fall on the hanging belay. This is the psychological crux. Belay at a 2-bolt station above a dike.
Pitch 3: Finish up a prow that joins The Fin Arete.

Protection

The scariest runout section is directly above the first belay station shown. I suggest a few quickdraws with locking carabiners.

Descent

Continue straight up The Fin Arete to a 2-bolt station directly above a large corner/crack. Rappel 80' to a low angle slab. Scramble down to Gargoyle Gully.

History

Some of the bolts were placed while rappelling.
For sure classic, but unfortunately, one of those classics that I will only lead once:):)... I hear at least the 1/4" er has been retrofitted with more girth. Ranks way up there in one of the scarier and bolder leads in the Wasatch. And drilled on lead, very proud. Sep 14, 2016
RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
RKM   Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
Just saw in the brand new Granite Guide an odd description of pitch 2 on Dark Horse . . . . the roof is usually passed on the left, but it has been pulled going straight up and over on the chickenhead. Both variations . . . . .

To each their own, but if you are checking this route off in either your mind or the guide book, but missing one of the three distinct crux's of the three pitch route by pussy-footing left around the second of two roofs the route was created to go over - you might be cheating, or kidding, yourself. Sep 13, 2016
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11 PG13
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.11 PG13
Despite many tries over 30 years I have yet to free that roof move. Tough route! Jan 11, 2016
One of the best routes I ever climbed in LCC. Did it with Lance Bateman about 25 years ago. The sequence over the first roof is absolutely amazing. Consistently good climbing. Heady, out there, awesome. Lance led the first pitch and I led the second and third as a combined pitch. One of the best days of climbing I ever had. Nov 7, 2013
RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
RKM   Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
Just a little history about Dark Horse to go along with the old scanned pictures. I have climbed it five times. Twice with Mark Ward, once with Bryce Thatcher, once with Steve Bowen and once with Brandon Pack. I've worn EB's, PA's, Mekan two lace system high tops, and Moccasym's (with socks, of course). The last time was probably '91/92

Only one bolt was placed on rappel (the first or second bolt of pitch two). That was used during our rappel from the Fin Arete to get a closer look. Sep 10, 2011
CalmAdrenaline   SL,UT
if the weather holds out this is on the list for tomorrow. No there are still the two bolts at the base of the ramp, none above it though. Apr 11, 2009
bsmoot  
Don't think it's happened yet. I'm hoping to get up there with Kim though.

Edit update: Thanks for the photos Kim! Nov 14, 2007
This really is good beta - I'll be bringing a short draw with that in mind. This route has a serious rep. Last spring someone mentioned there was a horn in the crux that used to get slung but that's gone now. They said the FA's wanted to go and remedy this and make it safer. Anyone know if that happened.

I aspire to this one. Nov 14, 2007