Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches
FA: Mark Ward, Kim Miller: 1979
Page Views: 3,896 total · 25/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 13, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Approach

From the 4th bolt on The Fin Arete.

Route Description

Start on The Fin Arete.
Pitch 1: Branch right, toward the roof. I used a short runner on the bolt protecting the (physical crux) roof despite recieving rope drag. It was OK because the belay is right after you clear the lip.
Pitch 2: Climb straight up one of the most exposed hard slabs you may ever climb. Clip the lead rope through the belay anchor to prevent an FF2 fall on the hanging belay. This is the psychological crux. Belay at a 2-bolt station above a dike.
Pitch 3: Finish up a prow that joins The Fin Arete.

Protection

The scariest runout section is directly above the first belay station shown. I suggest a few quickdraws with locking carabiners.

Descent

Continue straight up The Fin Arete to a 2-bolt station directly above a large corner/crack. Rappel 80' to a low angle slab. Scramble down to Gargoyle Gully.

History

Some of the bolts were placed while rappelling.

Photos