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Hook, Line and Sinker
5.10b,
Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 2.5 from 21
votes
FA: Tyler Phillips, Pat & Kristen Bardsley 2014
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Fin
> Upper Fin
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This newish addition to the Fin is a great intro to Fin climbing. The first 3 pitches can be escaped from and rappelled to the base of harder south facing Fin routes, perhaps providing a warm up for those of us who need it.
P1- From the start of the scramble of the Fin there is a diorite face to the left (north). A pin and a few bolts will lead up to a dihedral. Ramble up this to a large shelf with a 2 bolt belay above. 9+/10a
P2- Slab up the wonderful scoop clipping bolts to a featured chimney, step right at the top to a 2 bolt belay and GREAT belay stance. 5.9
P3- Pad up perfect granite clipping a lone bolt to the anchor. 5.5 (from this anchor shuffle out right (up canyon) to a stance and a two bolt belay. You can run this together, but its a bit of route finding that may elude you on your first round.
P4- Slab up the impeccable Fin rock making a few committing moves and step left to the anchor and a nice shelf. 5.10b (it is possible to escape to the Fin Arete at bolt 2)
Alt- Climb up from belay and clip bolt out right and regain the Fin Arete
P5- Slab up passing a pin in the dihedral. Near the top you'll encounter featured rock and a bolt or two. Ramble up the low angle dihedral aiming for a 2 bolt belay and another great stance
P6- Climb up a thin crack to beautiful rock and wonderful movement. This pitch spits you out on the namesake of the feature of the entire formation. Don't forget to find a small TCU up on the arete, your second will thank you.
Descent: Standard Fin gully descent if topping out. It is possible to rap back to the base using two ropes from the 4th pitch.
Location
From where the standard pack ditching/ harness up flat spot is. Look up and spot a speckled diortie face. The first pitch starts here. Its about a 30 ft. scramble to the base.
The entire route was equipped ground up.
Protection
Rack to #3 camalot. 12 QD's, shoulder slings
![TP on the FA's last pitch]()
[Hide Photo] TP on the FA's last pitch
![P5. The first pin is easy to miss. <br>
P6 climbs just to the right of the large-ish roof on the skyline]()
[Hide Photo] P5. The first pin is easy to miss. P6 climbs just to the right of the large-ish roof on the skyline
![The start. Bolt locations are approximate. Scramble up the ramp to the right to a ledge directly below the 1st bolt (we didn't find the first pin shown on the topo or the bolt below it)]()
[Hide Photo] The start. Bolt locations are approximate. Scramble up the ramp to the right to a ledge directly below the 1st bolt (we didn't find the first pin shown on the topo or the bolt below it)
![Very rough line of ascent. Climber on the Fin Arête. See the Granite Guide for a better beta photo]()
[Hide Photo] Very rough line of ascent. Climber on the Fin Arête. See the Granite Guide for a better beta photo
![Great day on the Fin, only saw one other climbing party, probably locals.]()
[Hide Photo] Great day on the Fin, only saw one other climbing party, probably locals.
![Looking down the 5th pitch.]()
[Hide Photo] Looking down the 5th pitch.
![PVS heading into the city of rocks section of pitch 5. Taken from the shrubby ledge left of the P4 anchor.]()
[Hide Photo] PVS heading into the city of rocks section of pitch 5. Taken from the shrubby ledge left of the P4 anchor.
![PVS connecting the juggy black dots pitch 2]()
[Hide Photo] PVS connecting the juggy black dots pitch 2
![This 6 pitch route begins with a boulder problem. . . Prepare to get stumped.]()
[Hide Photo] This 6 pitch route begins with a boulder problem. . . Prepare to get stumped.
![TDA on Pitch 6 goodness.]()
[Hide Photo] TDA on Pitch 6 goodness.
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Small Lake, UT
. P2 is excellent slabbing with sporty moves to reach the chickenheads. The anchor is right of a wide crack and left of a much wider cleft. Almost 3 stars.
. The top of P3 is marked by a large boulder precariously perched on a ledge. The downward shuffle starts behind the boulder.
. Of note for P4, the anchor is directly left of the last bolt (as in level with it about 8' to the left, not easy to spot). The bolt up the steeper slabs is for the P5 variation, keep your eyes peeled for the anchor or you'll end up linking pitches and not finishing the regular route. Welcome to drilling on lead...
If your slab game is weak you can skip P4 and enjoy the goodness above by continuing up the easy but brushy slab above the big boulder on top of P3 to a cluster of trees, the top of P4 is one hard move away (don't fall in the tree).
. P5 is a wonderful romp up all kinds of cool features (almost 3 stars too) . P6 can hold its own with the other classic pitches on the Fin IMO. I was cackling like a maniac once I popped on the upper arete after climbing great patina. Legit 3 stars.
Overall I'd say 2.5 stars but I like to antagonize Tyler so I'll round down to 2.
3 single rope raps on the West face with a 70m and a bit of walking will get you back to the packs. Sep 13, 2016
Salt Lake City, UT
Cottonwood Heights, UT
Cheers. Sep 14, 2016
Utah
Tda Sep 14, 2016
Small Lake, UT
James, what you can possibly have against the raps? The old bolts are fine and the new anchor (which is protected, easy to spot and convenient to pull from) eliminates the semi-sketchy downclimb. Getting off with a 70m is a breeze... As the Lord Of Rappelling I thought you'd be pleased :)
The route isn't the Fin Arete or the Dorsal but it's long, sustained, super fun, and much more accessible than the old school classics. I'm done climbing 10+ slabs 15' above bolts and was psyched to walk off a Fin route with clean underwear (for once). Two of the pitches are solid 3 stars and two are solid 2 stars, better than I can say about a shitload of new stuff I've climbed lately, and certainly head and shoulders above anything of yours I've ever been on James... Sep 15, 2016
SMOGden, UT
For the record James, I've always liked your quirky rappel anchors. Sep 15, 2016
Salt Lake City, UT
Nice work TP and company! Oct 10, 2016
Salt Lake City
Sandy, UT