Avg: 2.3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Fritz Wiessner & William Shockley, 1946|
|Page Views:||535 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Nov 2, 2015|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Security patrols are in place to to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.
Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back.
P1 - Climb the "nose" of the prow into the alcove (pitons). Make an awkward and committing move out left (clearly the crux, seems harder than 5.6) then move back up and right to a belay on fixed wired nuts. 50-60 ft 5.6 (+ ?)
P2 - Climb the beautiful rock up and slightly right (passing a second fixed nuts-anchor) to the top. 5.3-5.4 100-130 ft.