Type: Trad, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: 1940, Hans Kraus, Roger Wolcott, Del Wildes
Page Views: 51 total · 26/month
Shared By: eric r on Nov 22, 2020
Admins: RJ B

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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details
Access Issue: While public climbing is still legally and enforceably prohibited at Sky Top, you may climb LEGALLY at Sky Top as a guided client, since 2007. Details


In his 1972 guidebook Dick Williams writes "Not much can be said for this climb except that besides being dirty, it's also easy." Let that ring in your ears as you select to do a climb with this name.

Start up the rampy corner, following generally easy terrain past a bush to a ledge. Up and right is a bolted anchor generally used for Pete's Meat, off to the right. Continue up the corner, excavating gear placements from the dirt in the crack. You may find it useful or necessary to chimney between a tree and the lefthand face; if it becomes entangled in your gear the branches can serve as direct protection. Follow the crack into a face up and right (ice may be encountered early or late season), before traversing back left on wet, dark rock. Avoid an overhang on the right, and eventually you will find yourself at the top.  


This route is right off the Labyrinth trail, in the small amphitheater just before you round the corner to the Lemon Squeeze. It starts just right of Sound and Fury on a left-facing wide ramp.


Gear may be sparse and require slinging foliage or creating placements by removing dirt (what did you expect?)


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