Avg: 0 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 110 ft (33 m)|
|FA:||1940, Hans Kraus, Roger Wolcott, Del Wildes|
|Page Views:||51 total · 26/month|
|Shared By:||eric r on Nov 22, 2020|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Security patrols are in place to to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.
Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back.
In his 1972 guidebook Dick Williams writes "Not much can be said for this climb except that besides being dirty, it's also easy." Let that ring in your ears as you select to do a climb with this name.
Start up the rampy corner, following generally easy terrain past a bush to a ledge. Up and right is a bolted anchor generally used for Pete's Meat, off to the right. Continue up the corner, excavating gear placements from the dirt in the crack. You may find it useful or necessary to chimney between a tree and the lefthand face; if it becomes entangled in your gear the branches can serve as direct protection. Follow the crack into a face up and right (ice may be encountered early or late season), before traversing back left on wet, dark rock. Avoid an overhang on the right, and eventually you will find yourself at the top.
This route is right off the Labyrinth trail, in the small amphitheater just before you round the corner to the Lemon Squeeze. It starts just right of Sound and Fury on a left-facing wide ramp.