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Routes in Sky Top
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A Pilgrim's Progress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crash and Burn T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Cretin Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dirty T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Foops T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gargoyle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Grey Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Jekyll and Hyde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Krapp's Last Tape T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Lakeview T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Minnie Belle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mohonk Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Open Cockpit T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Overhanging Overhang T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Petie's Spare Rib T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Rear Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Ringwraith T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sound and Fury T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Strawberry Yogurt T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Super Crack T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Taste of Honey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Yellow Verschneidung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Zig Zag Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dave Loeks, 1974 |
| Page Views: | 450 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Taino Grosjean on May 31, 2007 |
| Admins: | RJ B |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Access Issue: While public climbing is still legally and enforceably prohibited at Sky Top, you may climb LEGALLY at Sky Top as a guided client, since 2007.
Details
If you want to legally climb at Sky Top, you have to be guided. Alpine Endeavors is contracted by the Mountain House to be the only guide service legally allowed to guide at Sky Top. This might seem completely unfair, but it's their sandbox - so, it's their rules. See mohonk.com/activities/overn… and mohonkmountainguides.com/ for more information.
Security patrols are in place to to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.
Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back.
Security patrols are in place to to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.
Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back.
Description
Fun moves, but the route is very overgrown and needs a good cleaning. With more traffic, this route will clean up well. The crux is up through the dihedral, and is above gear.
Location
Start at an open book that starts above the ground on the right side of an overhang, 15 feet left of Mary.
Pitch 1: Climb the open book and face above to a large ledge (60 feet). Watch out for the shrubbery growing in the dihedral.
Pitch 2: traverse slightly to the left to rappel, or step around right and finish on Mary (60 feet).
Rappel from the top; two raps with a single rope or one rap with a double rope. Rappel stations are new.
Pitch 1: Climb the open book and face above to a large ledge (60 feet). Watch out for the shrubbery growing in the dihedral.
Pitch 2: traverse slightly to the left to rappel, or step around right and finish on Mary (60 feet).
Rappel from the top; two raps with a single rope or one rap with a double rope. Rappel stations are new.
Photos
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